Piramide Casati

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 45.95320°N / 9.38720°E
Additional Information Route Type: Trad Climbing
Seasons Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
Additional Information Time Required: Most of a day
Additional Information Difficulty: UIAA 4°-5°
Additional Information Rock Difficulty: 5.7 (YDS)
Additional Information Number of Pitches: 12
Sign the Climber's Log

this is both a Mountain and a Route page

as for this structure belongs to a "ridge" of a real mountain we can consider it not a separate summit.


The Piramide Casati is, after the Magnaghi group, the biggest rock structure among the Grigna Meridionale (Grignetta) pillars.
Made of a mix of dolomite and limestone rocks it has a wide NW wall where 4 fine routes can be a good alternative to the usual, frequented routes of the group.

Most know it for its famous Vallepiana edge that is compared, as difficulty and engagement (even if shorter) to the Cassin route on the Medale wall.

It has an easy (I°) normal route usually used for descending but sometimes climbed by the ones walking along the Cecilia path from Colle Valsecchi to Colle Garibaldi toward the Rifugio Rosalba : the summit can be reached in few minutes with an easy (with some exposure) scramble.

My personal advice is to climb both the most amusing routes in the same day, starting with the SSW edge and, after coming down, ending with the NNW crack (better when warmed by the afternoon sun)

Getting There

From Pian dei Resinelli along the Direttissima path (going straight left at the Canalone di Val Tesa) along the path to Colle Garibaldi in 1,5-2 hours to the base of the SSW edge and a little further, scrambling on easy rocks, to the NW wall.

From Rifugio Rosalba, along the Cecilia path to Colle Garibaldi wherefrom you can see the NW wall and where the Direttissima path goes down.
Time required 1/2 h.

Vallepiana edge

Piramide Casati routes

The starting point, easy to find, is a thin crack.
The route is well defined and easy to be found, always following the edge, with some very short crosses.
No big differences of difficulties climbing along the large number of variants to the easier route.
Some pegs can give you the track to follow.
The photo, and its caption, give more info

One advice, better avoid the Camino Porro (3rd pitch) on the left and climb straight on, a little more difficult but better especially if chimney is wet.

The lenght of the route is about 200m and the difference in elevation about 150m - 6 pitches

Gasparotto crack

Piramide Casati routes

This route is much less known and climbed than the previous one but, being a little harder and much more sustained and on fantastic rock is, as for my thoughts, better.

The route follows entirely the big crack, in its middle part the wall on the right, on fantastic grey rock is a little more difficult but much more amusing.
The better ending pitch is on the left, along a gray slab (4 pegs)
The photo, and its caption, give more info

The lenght of the route is about 160m and the difference in elevation about 130m - 6 short pitches

Essential Gear

a normal (40m) rope, some (6-8) carabiniers

we used to climb it wearing mountain boots (not rock shoes) and had no problems due to the sharpness of the toeholds.

Difficulry table

PD3 - 4
3°inf - 3° - 3° supAD5 - 5.2
4° inf - 4° - 4° supD5.3 - 5.5
5° inf - 5° - 5° supTD5.6 - 5.8
6° inf - 6° - 6° supED5.9 - 5.11
EX5.11a - 5.11b



Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.