Cycled to Pissis, then camped at 4700m and 5750m. Set off at 06:30m from the high camp and climbed, via the Gendarmeria Argentina summit, to the Principal CAM summit. Reached it at 11:50, then continued over Samore and UPAME to the Pissis East/Ejercito Argentino summit, arriving at 16:30. Descended to 5450m to avoid crossing the glacier as there was lots of fresh snow around, then climbed back to high camp, arriving 13h30 after setting off. Great day! The following day continued on to Bonete with our bikes.
solo, unsupported 24h from basecamp to basecamp. It is possible to do it in few hours if good aclimatized. I found a body of lost climber on my way to the summit. sad story.
Didnt have money to rent a jeep from basecamp so made a long walk to Laguna Celeste off trail. Beutiful experience
Hi - you probably found the body of Neil Tucker who disappeared on Pissis in 2003. His family would appreciate more information on the body's location on Pissis, I am sure
Climbed first the Pissis East the same day, than went to the main summit through the pass. Got there quite late (by sunset). Climbed down by the glacier to the south.
Beautiful mountain, amazing views and very remote location.
Team "Puna Argentina 2008" - Gnome - Patrick Nehring - Fabrice Rimlinger
Acclimatation : 1 week at "Las Grutas" and on Incahuasi
Route : Normal from BC "Mar del Plata" @ 4600m
D1 - BC 4600m --> C1 5300m in 3h45
D2 - C1 5300m --> C2 6330m in 5h
D3 - C2 6330m --> CAM summit 6795m in 4h --> BC 4600m --> Fiambala 1500m
Excellent weather and glacier conditions - First to climb it during 2008-2009 season and maybe the highest guys on earth during that day... AMAZING views over Ojos and Tres Cruces.
Great logistics supplied by Marcelo Brandan and Diego Sanchez from Andes Catamarca
Moved to the bottom of the glacier from base camp (5,400m) and summitted the next day in 7 hrs, longannoying scree slope to right of glacier but a bit more interesting above the ¨rock garden¨at 6,250m, not really aclimitado, so sort of öut of it¨ Very windy!!!
I reached the summit after 6.5 hours in cold weather, which made two other climbers turn around. I climbed Aconcagua and Ojos Salado the week(s) before, so now I have TOP 3 summits in Andes.
See the entire trip-report here:
Tatiana, Eduardo and I summited MONTE PISSIS on the 28th of february 2007.
Mar del Plata base camp 4580m, camp 1 5360m, camp 2 at 5950m on a very narrow spot where we found the summit cross left there by its hill carrier forced to go down as we were told later.
Because weather was not so good this day, we just went up to Puertozuelo camp at 6280m.
Tatiana and Eduardo brought up and installed the summit cross the day after. We filled up the summit book and went around the summit plateau for a closer look to west and east summits.
6803m indicated by Edu’s GPS
Many thanks to Tatiana and Eduardo, firstname.lastname@example.org
Edu measured EAST II 4 meters lower than MAIN and EAST I 6 meters lower than MAIN with GPS accuracy of 8 meters. So to be sure to climb the real summit of PISSIS, climb these 3 as we did! EAST II is really worth a look and EAST I will be on the way…
If you do consider “Gendarmeria Nacional” as one of the summits of PISSIS range, you should also consider East III and the 3 west summits. They are higher or of equal height and absolutely more prominent than GN even on IGM map.
Therefore there are not 5 (as seen from north) or 6 (adding PISSIS IV = west I) but at least 9 summits as seen from main summit plateau.
As heights and prominences are very close in figures, fine survey could be interesting and why not surprising!
On december 5th 2006, Gabriel FAVA (from San Juan), Reinhold MICHL (Augsburg), Uwe WATSCHOUNEK (DUSSELDORF), Griselda MORENO (from SALTA), Jacques Coquet (Paris), Thomas Acher (Combloux) and I reached the main summit of Pissis (CAM).
We made it from high camp at 6267m in 3 to 4 hours.
Altitude on the top with GPS was 6804m.
This mountain is one of the most interesting of the Andes to climb. Water can normally be found at different high camp sites on the normal route.
Ojos del Salado / Pissis controversy : Pissis is very likely number 3
Whether people accept it or not, this controversy explains quite a lot the growing success and number of people attempting Pissis especially since 1994's edition of Argentinian map, suggesting it might be 2nd highest of the Andes and America. Remember only a handful of climbs took place before 1994!!!!
so is Pissis really number 2?
In my opinion, this seems unlikely for the several reasons :
if you believe Pissis is number 2, you must believe that :
- Ojos del Salado is 6864m or lower than 6882m supposed heiught of Pissis(but all measurements, including the last one from University of Dresden, puts Ojos around 6900m, or at least 6893m)and not lower than 6882 (only the argentinian map differs!)
- Pissis's height is indeed 6882m ; The ONLY measurement of such a height for Pissis is the argentinian 1994 map of Pissis. This measurement seems unlikely both according to a lot of GPS measurements made on the summit by a lot of climbers (around 6795/6800m, mine being 6804m just 2 meters below the summit) and on top of that, the new SRTM datas confirm this GPS estimate of height around 6800m, far away from Ojos's 6900m
Accordingly, it seems really doubtful that Pissis is really challenging Ojos serioulsy, but it remains solidly in rank number 3, and not so far from its previous height of 6779m, a bit underestimated. Pissis is indeed the unknown giant of the Andes, really worth a visit, though more famous than Cerro Bonete Chico (6759m).
Nice challenge as well for those willing to conquer all the summits of Pissis which has 5 principal tops.
Cycled and hitch-hiked to Pissis, together with Andy Debakker from Belgium. Reached summit alone, surveyed summit with Trimble 5800 DGPS, establishing 6795 m as elevation.
Skied down Pissis glacier, third ski descent of Pissis overall.