Piton Carré Piton Carré
The Piton Carré
or Pitón Carré
is a small but nice peak of Vignemale Massif. When we contemplate this summit from the glacier of Ossoue it seems to us a small peak in comparison with the nearby one Grand Vignemale (3298m), but its prestigious routes of rock-climb at the North face, the prominent that it seems on the ridge from Grand Vignemale (3298m) to Petit Vignemale (3032m), and the famous Brèche de Gaube (3152m), exit of the prestigious coulouir, that is found next to the summit... all have done that be a main summit on the list of peaks of 3000m of Pyrenees.
Generally the most frequented climb is from the glacier of Ossoue after the climb of Grand Vignemale before the return to trailhead because the route to the main summit is near.
-normal from Glacier d'Ossoue: F.sup. (I+), 30º if the route present snow.
-ridge Punta Chausenque-Piton Carré: P.D. (II+).
-full ridge Petit Vignemale-Punta Chausenque-Piton Carré: A.D.inf. (III in descent from Petit Vignemale to col des glaciers and II+ in the climb to Epaule and Punta Chausenque).
V. de Chausenque on 1822 across the ridge from Petit Vignemale, but he didn't follow to Grand Vignemale.
Coulouir de Gaube
This is the most famous coulouir of Pyrenees but really the coulouir don't reach any summit because the exit is on the Brèche de Gaube (3152m) between Grand Vignemale (3298m) and Piton Carré (3197m). Of course after the coulouir generally the people climb the main summit across the normal route from glacier but the coulouir is enough reward if you climbed Grand Vignemale or Piton Carré another time. I've attached the route to this peak because the climb is possible in 15 minutes from the exit of coulouir but it's not very important if you climb this mythical coulouir.
Ridge North of Vignemale Massif
Access from the French
side by road is from the East-West autoroute E80 (Bayonne to Toulouse) and the National road N21 via Lourdes and the D821 / D920 to Cauterets or the D921 to Gavarnie. There are airports at Pau and Toulouse.
Access from Spanish
side by road from the N.W. or W. of the country: across Irun to cross to France, taking the road to Bayonne and the same French way.
Access from Spanish side in the centre of Pyrenees
(near Huesca): the best option in the entry in French territory across Col du Portalet or Col du Somport. In winter many days this road is closed by the snow (or it requires the use of chains). D918 to Argelès-Gazost, D12 and D921 to Gavarnie.
No permits are required. If you want to sleep in the Refuge of Bayssellance is advisable the reserve by phone.
In the National Parks camping is normally not allowed, except in a place of more than 1h of walk of a refuge, but it's very difficult in the route from the North (Oulettes de Gaube) because it exist two refuges (Gaube and Bayssellance). The best option to camp is near Barrage d'Ossoue, in the South approach, with some places indicates near of the dam.
Refuge of Baysellance
(2650m, 70 places)