ferdinandverboom - Feb 4, 2023 12:31 pm Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2022
Long route
From Rifugio Marinelli-Bombardieri. Very (too) long route. Just under the summit suspicious weather came in. We had to turn back.
Jurgen - Jun 4, 2020 12:33 pm Date Climbed: May 22, 2020
"Buuch" on skis from Morteratsch
Daytour from Morteratsch by bike, on running shoes and with skis. Finished my project to climb all the highpoints of all the Swiss Cantons!
Flachlandtiroler - Jul 1, 2019 11:15 pm Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2019
Biancograt
After a winter with much snow and early in the season conditions were perfect:
- Furcola Prievelusa can be accessed on snow (no rockfall)
- Rocky section afterwards was dry
- Biancograt snow with good steps, only a 60m section with around 40°was icy
- final arrete to summit mostly dry
- weather perfect, only 6 or 7 teams on the way
boriskrielen - Feb 6, 2018 8:18 am Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2009
Spalla Ridge solo
Climbed the Italian normal route by the Spalla Ridge solo.
mirka - Nov 7, 2017 1:45 am Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2017
Biancograt
We started from Tschierva and did Biancograt. It was extremly windy on the snowy ridge, the gusts of the wind sometimes made you just kneel and hold for the life - scary... Clear sky though. The rocky ridge was almost completely without snow - very enjoyable climbing in good rock. Descended to Marco e Rosa and ended up in the old emergency hut, as they somehow lost our reservation... From hut to hut it took us almost 13 hours, but we have waited a few times because of the groups in front of us. I do not recommend to try to pass people forward by taking an alternative way - we did once, ended up in a very hard terrain and took us long to get through. We descended the next day to Diavolezza via Fortezza, but looking back we regret not going for Piz Palu.
Via Spalla ridge - long roundtrip from Rifugio Marinelli, skipping Marco e Rosa hut.
Lodewijk - Sep 10, 2017 3:20 pm Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2017
Stairway to heaven aka Biancograt
Climbed the "stairway to heaven" aka Biancograt from the Tschierva Huette. Due to the snowfall a couple of days before the Biancograt was in good condition (fortunately) again.
The route can be best described as: Just awesome...
Great combination of both rock and snow/ice. It took us about 10 hours from the Tschierva hut to the Marco e Rosa Huette. Strong winds on the Biancograt made it a little tricky. Just 10 other people on the route that day. Best climb of 2017 (so far).
Route: Tschierva Huette - Biancograt - Piz Bianco/ Piz Alv - Piz Bernina - Spallagrat - Rif. Marco e Rosa
Kimmuriel - Aug 20, 2014 10:10 am Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2014
Via Biancograt
We reached the summit of Piz Bianco at 3995 meter, but failed Piz Bernina because the wind blew very hard and the summit was too risky.
Alberto Rampini - Mar 7, 2013 9:09 am Date Climbed: Aug 16, 1987
[X] Bird - Sep 14, 2011 11:28 am Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2011
Biancograt
Did the famous bianco ridge. Lots of snow fell during the summer so the old route variation to get onto the col where the ridge starts was possible and we did not have to use the klettersteig. I had high expectations, probably because the ridge looks nicer from a distance compared to when you are actually on it. In the end a nice climb on good rock. But the ridge is best appreciated from a distance, you probably have a great view from Piz Morteratsch.
Route Climbed: Biancograt Date Climbed: august 2011
Climbed the beautiful Biancograt in winter conditions. A lot of snow made ascent from Fuorcla Prievlusa to Piz Bianco quite easy and straight forward, the ridge to Piz Bernina however was a little bit more demanding...although it's not so hard after all. Didn't suffer the crowds which were leaving with us from the Tschierva Hut, even alone at the summit around 11.00 o'clock. Nice trip with descent to Marco e Rosa Hut.
frotveit - Mar 2, 2011 10:08 am Date Climbed: Jul 10, 2009
From Marco E Rosa Hut
With Jan
rgg - Jan 10, 2011 5:20 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2009
La Spedla
We had started the day at Rifugio Marinelli Bombardieri and climbed the normal Italian route. After that, we spent the night at Rifugio Marco e Rosa. A wonderful climb!
Peter K - Aug 18, 2009 10:51 am Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2009
Route Climbed: Biancograt
The Bianco ridge made me smile all the way up. Stunning view and definitely worth the name "Himmelsleiter"!
We came from the Tschierva Hut, descended via the Spallagrat to the Marco e Rosa Hut and continued the other day via the Piz Palü traverse to Diavolezza.
ferdinandverboom - Feb 4, 2023 12:31 pm Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2022
Long routeFrom Rifugio Marinelli-Bombardieri. Very (too) long route. Just under the summit suspicious weather came in. We had to turn back.
Jurgen - Jun 4, 2020 12:33 pm Date Climbed: May 22, 2020
"Buuch" on skis from MorteratschDaytour from Morteratsch by bike, on running shoes and with skis. Finished my project to climb all the highpoints of all the Swiss Cantons!
Flachlandtiroler - Jul 1, 2019 11:15 pm Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2019
BiancogratAfter a winter with much snow and early in the season conditions were perfect:
- Furcola Prievelusa can be accessed on snow (no rockfall)
- Rocky section afterwards was dry
- Biancograt snow with good steps, only a 60m section with around 40°was icy
- final arrete to summit mostly dry
- weather perfect, only 6 or 7 teams on the way
boriskrielen - Feb 6, 2018 8:18 am Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2009
Spalla Ridge soloClimbed the Italian normal route by the Spalla Ridge solo.
mirka - Nov 7, 2017 1:45 am Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2017
BiancogratWe started from Tschierva and did Biancograt. It was extremly windy on the snowy ridge, the gusts of the wind sometimes made you just kneel and hold for the life - scary... Clear sky though. The rocky ridge was almost completely without snow - very enjoyable climbing in good rock. Descended to Marco e Rosa and ended up in the old emergency hut, as they somehow lost our reservation... From hut to hut it took us almost 13 hours, but we have waited a few times because of the groups in front of us. I do not recommend to try to pass people forward by taking an alternative way - we did once, ended up in a very hard terrain and took us long to get through. We descended the next day to Diavolezza via Fortezza, but looking back we regret not going for Piz Palu.
PeterCorneliusSpaeth - Nov 2, 2017 8:14 am Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2017
Spalla RidgeVia Spalla ridge - long roundtrip from Rifugio Marinelli, skipping Marco e Rosa hut.
Lodewijk - Sep 10, 2017 3:20 pm Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2017
Stairway to heaven aka BiancogratClimbed the "stairway to heaven" aka Biancograt from the Tschierva Huette. Due to the snowfall a couple of days before the Biancograt was in good condition (fortunately) again.
The route can be best described as: Just awesome...
Great combination of both rock and snow/ice. It took us about 10 hours from the Tschierva hut to the Marco e Rosa Huette. Strong winds on the Biancograt made it a little tricky. Just 10 other people on the route that day. Best climb of 2017 (so far).
Route: Tschierva Huette - Biancograt - Piz Bianco/ Piz Alv - Piz Bernina - Spallagrat - Rif. Marco e Rosa
Kimmuriel - Aug 20, 2014 10:10 am Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2014
Via BiancogratWe reached the summit of Piz Bianco at 3995 meter, but failed Piz Bernina because the wind blew very hard and the summit was too risky.
Alberto Rampini - Mar 7, 2013 9:09 am Date Climbed: Aug 16, 1987
Biancograt soloGreat "arete course"!
Andrey Pramatarov - Feb 13, 2013 6:53 am Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2012
Spallagrat up/downAmazing! Knife-edge ridge and wonderful views!
marc123 - Sep 18, 2012 4:54 am Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2008
Beautiful weather on BiancogratClimbed up Bernina in beatiful weather from Biancograt to Marco e Rosa hut.
Branko - Jul 31, 2012 7:59 am Date Climbed: Jul 9, 2012
From Marco e RosaWe had perferct weather/conditions with no wind and plenty of sunshine. We were alone on the ridge! Next time - Biancograt!
Silvia Mazzani - Jan 4, 2012 12:40 pm Date Climbed: Sep 15, 1982
Normal RouteFrom Marco e Rosa Hut.
ivanriva - Oct 28, 2011 6:44 pm
Normal routeJuly 2005. From rif. Marinelli
[X] Bird - Sep 14, 2011 11:28 am Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2011
BiancogratDid the famous bianco ridge. Lots of snow fell during the summer so the old route variation to get onto the col where the ridge starts was possible and we did not have to use the klettersteig. I had high expectations, probably because the ridge looks nicer from a distance compared to when you are actually on it. In the end a nice climb on good rock. But the ridge is best appreciated from a distance, you probably have a great view from Piz Morteratsch.
il.rocciatore - Aug 20, 2011 10:29 am
Route Climbed: Biancograt Date Climbed: august 2011Climbed the beautiful Biancograt in winter conditions. A lot of snow made ascent from Fuorcla Prievlusa to Piz Bianco quite easy and straight forward, the ridge to Piz Bernina however was a little bit more demanding...although it's not so hard after all. Didn't suffer the crowds which were leaving with us from the Tschierva Hut, even alone at the summit around 11.00 o'clock. Nice trip with descent to Marco e Rosa Hut.
frotveit - Mar 2, 2011 10:08 am Date Climbed: Jul 10, 2009
From Marco E Rosa HutWith Jan
rgg - Jan 10, 2011 5:20 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2009
La SpedlaWe had started the day at Rifugio Marinelli Bombardieri and climbed the normal Italian route. After that, we spent the night at Rifugio Marco e Rosa. A wonderful climb!
Peter K - Aug 18, 2009 10:51 am Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2009
Route Climbed: BiancogratThe Bianco ridge made me smile all the way up. Stunning view and definitely worth the name "Himmelsleiter"!
We came from the Tschierva Hut, descended via the Spallagrat to the Marco e Rosa Hut and continued the other day via the Piz Palü traverse to Diavolezza.
bergnasenbaer - Sep 20, 2008 12:24 pm
normal wayafter not reaching via bianco we did the normal route from diavolezza - Piz palü - bellavista - rif. marinelli