After a winter with much snow and early in the season conditions were perfect:
- Furcola Prievelusa can be accessed on snow (no rockfall)
- Rocky section afterwards was dry
- Biancograt snow with good steps, only a 60m section with around 40°was icy
- final arrete to summit mostly dry
- weather perfect, only 6 or 7 teams on the way
Climbed the Italian normal route by the Spalla Ridge solo.
We started from Tschierva and did Biancograt. It was extremly windy on the snowy ridge, the gusts of the wind sometimes made you just kneel and hold for the life - scary... Clear sky though. The rocky ridge was almost completely without snow - very enjoyable climbing in good rock. Descended to Marco e Rosa and ended up in the old emergency hut, as they somehow lost our reservation... From hut to hut it took us almost 13 hours, but we have waited a few times because of the groups in front of us. I do not recommend to try to pass people forward by taking an alternative way - we did once, ended up in a very hard terrain and took us long to get through. We descended the next day to Diavolezza via Fortezza, but looking back we regret not going for Piz Palu.
Via Spalla ridge - long roundtrip from Rifugio Marinelli, skipping Marco e Rosa hut.
Climbed the "stairway to heaven" aka Biancograt from the Tschierva Huette. Due to the snowfall a couple of days before the Biancograt was in good condition (fortunately) again.
The route can be best described as: Just awesome...
Great combination of both rock and snow/ice. It took us about 10 hours from the Tschierva hut to the Marco e Rosa Huette. Strong winds on the Biancograt made it a little tricky. Just 10 other people on the route that day. Best climb of 2017 (so far).
Route: Tschierva Huette - Biancograt - Piz Bianco/ Piz Alv - Piz Bernina - Spallagrat - Rif. Marco e Rosa
We reached the summit of Piz Bianco at 3995 meter, but failed Piz Bernina because the wind blew very hard and the summit was too risky.
Great "arete course"!
Amazing! Knife-edge ridge and wonderful views!
Climbed up Bernina in beatiful weather from Biancograt to Marco e Rosa hut.
We had perferct weather/conditions with no wind and plenty of sunshine. We were alone on the ridge! Next time - Biancograt!
From Marco e Rosa Hut.
July 2005. From rif. Marinelli
Did the famous bianco ridge. Lots of snow fell during the summer so the old route variation to get onto the col where the ridge starts was possible and we did not have to use the klettersteig. I had high expectations, probably because the ridge looks nicer from a distance compared to when you are actually on it. In the end a nice climb on good rock. But the ridge is best appreciated from a distance, you probably have a great view from Piz Morteratsch.
Climbed the beautiful Biancograt in winter conditions. A lot of snow made ascent from Fuorcla Prievlusa to Piz Bianco quite easy and straight forward, the ridge to Piz Bernina however was a little bit more demanding...although it's not so hard after all. Didn't suffer the crowds which were leaving with us from the Tschierva Hut, even alone at the summit around 11.00 o'clock. Nice trip with descent to Marco e Rosa Hut.
We had started the day at Rifugio Marinelli Bombardieri and climbed the normal Italian route. After that, we spent the night at Rifugio Marco e Rosa. A wonderful climb!
The Bianco ridge made me smile all the way up. Stunning view and definitely worth the name "Himmelsleiter"!
We came from the Tschierva Hut, descended via the Spallagrat to the Marco e Rosa Hut and continued the other day via the Piz Palü traverse to Diavolezza.
after not reaching via bianco we did the normal route from diavolezza - Piz palü - bellavista - rif. marinelli
Took us some time to get up.. Arrived at Marco e Rosa at 19:00
Up the Bianco Ridge, down Spalla. Long but rewarding.