Piz Bernina Climber's Log

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Corvus - Jul 26, 2008 1:16 pm Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2008

Italian normal route  Sucess!

Excelent weather conditions. Reached Marco & Rosa hut by the ferrata. Descending the first part on the Cresta Guzza couloir.


bergauf - Mar 18, 2008 3:41 pm Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2004

Biancograt from Tschiervahut  Sucess!

Route: Pontresina - Val Roseg (with MTB) - Tschiervahut - Biancograt - Piz Bernina - Rif. Marco e Rosa - Morteratsch - Val Roseg (horse ride) - Tschiervahut (getting key for MTB) - Pontresina. Everything took a little bit longer then planned...

Images from this Piz Bernina climb.


Cyrill - Nov 8, 2007 5:00 am Date Climbed: Jun 18, 2005

Piz Bernina  Sucess!

Great Tour to Piz Bernina 4049m

my picture are here: Link to Piz Bernina 4049m


morceaux - Oct 10, 2007 3:27 am Date Climbed: Jun 27, 2007

Bernina - me 1:0

Another annoying defeat... Italian normal route.
We just reached the climbing section of the final ridge, some 120 m below the summit... We slowed down in progress, and found out it will take 2 more hours to get to the summit, and the same back.
And those ugly big towering clouds were getting closer and closer from the southwest, and we didn't want to get in trouble.
So turned around, and as soon as we descended the last rope length to the snow slope, we got covered totally with a white-out. A bit later the snow began to fall, and we realized we made a good decision.
Next time.... via Biancograt


Bart - Aug 15, 2007 7:42 am Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2007

Biancograt  Sucess!

Climbed the Bianco ridge from the Tschierva hut and crossed over to the Marco e Rosa hut. Crowded but nice.


grynning - Jul 31, 2007 10:36 am Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2007

Biancograt tour/retour  Sucess!

Very nice and scenic tour. We downclimbed the ridge and went all the way back to Pontresina (this is a looong walk). I would instead recommend to go over to the Marco Rosa hut and do the Piz Palü or some other mountain up there... Cheers


mulidivarese - Jul 9, 2007 3:00 am Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2007

Alpinism Course 2007  Sucess!

The last peack of 3 days of wonderfull climbing on the group.
From Marco e rosa to the top in 2 hours, than we descended to Morterasch by the Fortezza ridge. Very crowded there.
Wonderfull day.



julesblaidd - Jul 2, 2007 1:48 pm Date Climbed: Jun 27, 2007

From Marco e Rosa

Unfortunatelly a strong fog and snowing was coming upon us when we were 120m under the summit. So we turned back because we had to go down on the day of summit assault. But it was a beautiful trip and before the fog we could take many nice photos.
I think I will try it again.


Gripped - Sep 15, 2006 2:25 pm

Traverse via Biancograt  Sucess!

A must do with a couple of enjoyable bivies and a storm.

Michael Graupe

Michael Graupe - Mar 14, 2006 2:58 am

From Marco E Rosa Hut Date climbed: July 1986  Sucess!

After the traverse of Piz Palu I climbed Piz Bernina from the Marco E Rosa hut the same day. While on the summit, clouds moved in quickly and right after I got back to the hut all hell broke loose. Spent the next two days in severe storms in the hut (mostly sleeping). On the third day the morning was clear and all six of us who got trapped in the hut roped together to find the route back via Bellavista Terrasse (huge crevasses) to the Fortezza ridge which was extremely challenging with all the fresh snow and ice. Just below the Fortezza ridge it started raining again.


aquariusz - Sep 15, 2005 3:42 am

Route Climbed: normal route from Campo Moro Date Climbed: 2005 - July  Sucess!

I reached the peak alone from the Italian side. Though it was a fantastic experience I don't recommend it (to climb alone ) to anyone. It is not a characteristic peak but the panorama is awesome ! :)


alpspitze - Sep 13, 2005 3:12 pm

Route Climbed: Spalla Grat Date Climbed: August 8, 1998  Sucess!

One of my most memorable Alps. Went up Piz Palu the day before, both days with t-shirt weather. St. Moritz is a great little Swiss town.

Pierre smetsers

Pierre smetsers - Sep 6, 2005 5:17 pm

Route Climbed: Biancograt from Tschiervahut Date Climbed: 26 july 2005  Sucess!

Great, just great. Its a long day. We (Waldo, Karel, Reinier & me) needed 14hours, started from Tschiervahut 4.00. to Marco & Rosa hut 18.00 the weather was ok. the route very different rock, snow and ice.


Franz77 - Feb 10, 2005 3:17 am

Route Climbed: Biancograt from Tschierva hutte and down to Marco&Rosa hutte and Fortezza Date Climbed: 17 July 2004  Sucess!

We were me, Costa and Mauri. Weather a little cloudy but there was also sun. Great emotions on the ridge! Fresch snow from Piz Bianco to Piz Bernina. We slept to Marco & Rosa hutte with our friends coming from Italian side Carla and Catena. The day after till Palù and then down to Morteratschgletscher through the fortezza ridge.


usarock69 - Nov 3, 2004 7:17 pm

Date Climbed: July 1997  Sucess!

This was our 5th day in the Alps, and after summiting other peaks days earlier, we were in excellent condition, therefore had no problem to get to the top. We enjoyed the glaciers and the ridge. One of my greatest climbs.


Artoirius - Aug 14, 2004 8:48 am

Route Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: Aug. 10, 2004  Sucess!

We started at Rif. Marinelli-Bombardieri. We walked via Passo Marinelli occident through upper Scerscen glacier to the Fuorcla Crast' Agüzza. After a very steep ice climb and some 200m of scrambling we reached Rif. Marco-e-Rosa. From there on it was some 400m of climbing on the Spalla ridge to the summit.

A really nice climb, on a very exposed spalla ridge.


Lorenz - Jul 8, 2004 5:12 am

Route Climbed: Biancograt Date Climbed: 27 June 2004  Sucess!

beautiful ridge route, perhaps the best one on central Alps. Excellent conditions, way back passing thourgh the Marco e Rosa refuge and down to the Morteratsch.


andrea.it - May 11, 2004 11:09 am

Route Climbed: normal from marcorosa hut Date Climbed: august 2001  Sucess!

Beautiful mountain,but the refuge staff is too aggressive!!!Next time i will sleep in a crevasse..


George66 - Jan 21, 2004 7:23 am

Route Climbed: Bianco ridge Date Climbed: Sep-1994  Sucess!

just great ...


risch - Jan 12, 2004 3:33 am

Route Climbed: Spalla ridge with skis, Biancoridge, Westface Date Climbed: Several times  Sucess!

This is one of my favorit summits in the Alps.

You can climb Piz Bernina by skis, climb one of the most famous ridge in the Alps (Bianco) or climb it over the hidden west- icewall.

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