Piz Prevat - NE spur

Page Type
Ticino, Switzerland, Europe
Route Type:
Trad Climbing
Time Required:
Half a day
Rock Difficulty:
5.8 (YDS)
Number of Pitches:

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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Piz Prevat - NE spur
Created On: Feb 2, 2008
Last Edited On: Feb 2, 2008


Fine, varied and amusing route, more difficult than the (more classic) NNE ridge, the difficult part of this route is a little shorter (about 200m of difference in elevation) giving access not directly to the summit but to the second minor summit of the W ridge.

The quality of the rock is very good, even if looking bad from far away, but the climb is definitely more tiring than the NNE ridge
I've been told that now the route is well furnished with inox spits.

Getting There

From Capanna Leit, cross without descending the slopes toward the small channel coming down from the saddle E of the summit (where the normal route starts).
At the end of the part made of big stones cross toward west, along grassy slopes to get a track that rounds the ridge W of the channel.
Now cross toward the Campolongo pass staying a little beyond the spurs and crossing in slightly descent along a big stones band till you get the base of the spur

Piz Prevat - routes pic -...

Route Description

From the lower part of the spur to a ledge, slightly toward right to get the crack very near the edge (some grass) and up to a belay point.
Up for 2 metres, 1 m to the right, and on along the edge until a small roof, cross to the left to get a crack leading to the belay point.
On easier rocks to a wide ledge and, along the dihedral on the left to the next belay.
Follow for slabs and cracks, at the end slightly to the right to a small belay.
On the left a good crack (once there was a wooden wedge), cross to the right to a peg then again to the left to get another crack that allows to pass right of a big roof; follow to a big blade and the next ledge.
A short wide dihedral then another one, smooth and vertical where the difficulties end.
Along the easy NW ridge to the summit

Route for descending

From the summit cross to the W minor summit using the easy rocks of the S side, down toward NW, bordering the ridge along some tracks, till the Campolongo pass.

If you like to go back to the Capanna Leit better descend straight along the SE ridge (1 short not difficult pass II Uiaa) to the small saddle, then, along the channel, to the Capanna.

Essential Gear

8-9 expresses 1 rope (50m) some karabiners some slings eventually nuts (4-9) eventually friends (2-3)