Piz Prevat - NNE edge

Page Type
Ticino, Switzerland, Europe
Route Type:
Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing
Spring, Summer, Fall
Time Required:
Half a day
Dsup (IV+ Uiaa)
Rock Difficulty:
5.7 (YDS)
Number of Pitches:

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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Piz Prevat - NNE edge
Created On: Jan 23, 2008
Last Edited On: Oct 5, 2009


Fine, varied and amusing route, the most amusing and classic route on this summit, really worth to be climbed.
The difference in elevation is 250+ metres and the good quality of the rock, giving small but solid grips and toeholds, allows an absolutely not tiring climb.
I remember very few pegs on the route (I haven't used any) but the belay points are good and safe.
The exposure can be felt in the high part.

Getting There

From Capanna Leit, cross without descending the slopes toward the small channel coming down from the saddle E of the summit (where the normal route starts).
At the end of the part made of big stones cross toward west, along grassy slopes to get a track that rounds the ridge W of the channel (on this ridge the "Media" route).
Crossing the channel you get the NNE ridge.
The starting point of the route is a big ledge (7-8m long) about 20 metres above the lower part of the ridge, on its left (East) side.
Piz Prevat - routes pic -...

Route Description

From the right margin of the ledge slightly toward left for ~ 15m than cross to the left and straight on to a good ledge.
To the left then up to a small edge.
Here 2 different possibilities :
- straight on (1 hard pass, 1 peg A1) then to a chimney on the left
- cross to the left (delicate) and straight on along the chimney (hard)
On along a short slab, down to a small notch to get an edge.
Straight along it (very exposed) till the edge becomes a vertical thin blade.
Cross to the left, descending for some metres, then straight on to a small niche.
Along a ramp for some 20m then straight on to a ledge very near the edge.
Straight on (exposed) till the summit ... fantastic !!!

Routes for descending

From the summit cross to the W minor summit using the easy rocks of the S side, down toward NW, bordering the ridge along some tracks, till the Campolongo pass.

If you like to go back to the Capanna Leit better descend straight along the SE ridge (1 short not difficult pass II Uiaa) to the small saddle, then, along the channel, to the Capanna.

Essential Gear

rope, some carabiniers ...

PS : This was the last route I climbed without using any anchors and/or quick draws (I always liked to make the entire pitches with the rope free): one week later my first child was born

Piz Prevat - NNE edge

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