Pizzi dei Piani

Page Type
Mountain/Rock
Location:
Sondrio (I) - canton Ticino (CH), Italy/Switzerland, Europe
Activities:
Mountaineering
Season:
Summer
Elevation:
10360 ft / 3158 m
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Pizzi dei Piani
Created On: Apr 5, 2004
Last Edited On: Nov 8, 2008

Overview

A twin tops mountain, smart, craggy and very interesting : the wildest mountain of Valle Spluga
Due to its nearness this summit is often confused with Pizzo Ferrè.
Pizzi dei Piani & Ferrè

Getting There

to ascend it from italian side (east) the usual starting points are
Stuetta (1865 m - parking near the dike of Montespluga lake) and Isola (1283 m)

starting from Milano (Italy) by car :
- route 36 to Colico, than Chiavenna, Campodolcino, Isola, Stuetta, Montespluga
- autoroute Milano-Como-Lugano-Bellinzona-S.Bernardino (tunnel)-Splügen-Splügen Pass (2113m), Montespluga, Stuetta, Isola
starting from Chur (CH)
- autoroute of S.Bernardino till Splügen then, on the left to Splügen Pass (2113m)-Montespluga-Stuetta-Isola

to ascend it from swiss side (west) the usual starting points are
- Pian S.Giacomo (1203m) through the Passo di Baldiscio (2350m)
- S.Bernardino (1603m) through the Bocchetta di Curciusa (2420m)

starting from Milano (Italy) by car :
- autoroute Milano-Como-Lugano-Bellinzona-Pian S.Giacomo-S.Bernardino
starting from Chur (CH)
- autoroute of S.Bernardino till Hinterreinn-S.Bernardino (tunnel)-S.Bernardino-Pian S.Giacomo

Routes overview

No easy nor short way to get it : big drops ask to be trained, rope and iceaxe always useful

starting point Stuetta :
A - NW wall wild climb ! Looks like a high mountain route, especially with snow at the beginning of the season (AD)
- from Ferrè saddle or from Curciusa (path from San.Bernardino)
B - NE ridge - crossing from Pizzo Ferrè the finest, amusing, not easy (PD),
this route starts from the summit of Pizzo Ferrè or from the saddle of Ferrè (crossing some snow slopes)
- to get the starting point see Pizzo Ferrè page.

starting point Isola :
C - East wall - wild climb - (PD) - danger of falling stones
D - SE edge to North summit - as previous
E - SE channel to the saddle between the two summits - to be done in spring or winter, with good snow and low temperature (PD)
F - SW ridge - normal route from Passo di Baldiscio (PD) - long and very fine,
beware of ice while crossing from South summit (3149 m) to North summit (3158 m)

starting point pian S.Giacomo or San Bernardino (CH - Ticino) :
routes A and F
when coming from San Bernardino and NW wall not in fine conditions a good climb could be the Pizzo Bianco (3036m)


When To Climb

spring and summer
can be done also in fall and winter with some logistic problems

Camping

best thing is carry a small tent till near the Passo di Baldiscio (fine meadows on the routes to it) or at Alpe Borghetto
In summer fast and trained climbers can do it directly from Isola or Pian San Giacomo.