I summited this by traversing the ridge after summiting Mt Sill. It was pretty straight forward but was pretty exposed going around the V notch.
U NOTCH FROM DUSY BASIN WITH LVMC LED BY XAVIER
that little knife-edge section between Polemonium and Sill.
Up it 3 times! Last was during a palisade traverse where we bivied a few feet down from the summit of North Pal.
Climbed with Eggheadsherpa and others. Two more 14ers to go.
T-bolt to Polemonium with Shay. Altitude + regular sick = "double whammy". From Polemonium you can descend the back side of the U-notch back to Dusy Basin. If you approached from Dusy Basin, this is the best way back (apparently dropping off the backside of Sill sucks).
I don't really remember getting up to the summit, but the downclimb toward Sill was spectacular. Razor thin arete/ridge with edges on one side, miles of exposure. Awesome!
climbed with kevintreieu, dexml and a host of others. Congrats to Kevin, his last CA 14er.
Day hiked T-bolt to Sill traverse with fossana and mybackyard. Bid farewell to poorboy44 and Shy at Polemonium's summit.
Route Climbed: From the U-notch
Date Climbed: September 9, 2006
Climbed with Javier and DustysDawg. Part of the Thunderbolt to Sill traverse single day push (18 hrs: South Lake/T-bolt to Sill traverse/Glacier Lodge).
Route Climbed: From the U-Notch
Date Climbed: August 21, 2004
An epic.....26 hours roundtrip from the Palisade glacier high camp (12,200'). Trip report.
Traverse from N Pal with mybackyard and forjan.
T-bolt to Sill dayhike with fossana & forjan
Climbed mostly 4th class terrain out onto the West Face from the U-Notch. Peak number 4 on our T-bolt to Sill traverse.
Traverse from Mt Sill. Climbed in a day with JM.
Dayhiked Sill & Polemonium on a beautiful day.
When cammerons book says to climb toward a tower on the North, go east or lookers left around the corner to the east side traverse from the U-notch well before reaching the tower. I pulled a big nasty rock of about went down with it. Nearly lost my foot with it and had a heli ride out after repels and hobbling accross the Pal Glacier.
\Thanks Kieth and Inyo SAR.
Climbed up (probably not the typical route) from the U-Notch with Courtney P. Climbing without rock shoes was "interesting" and took three pitches. We descended toward Sill and dropped back down to the glacier via Glacier Notch.
After climbing North Palisade (see N. Pal log for approach info.), we climbed Polemonium by way of a short crack on the right(looking up), then an easy ramp to a notch on the ridge. A short, fun 5.2ish pitch leads to the summit. We added webbing & rings to the rap stations.
After doing North Palisade via the U-Notch Couloir & Chimney Variation, we headed over to Polemonium Peak. Not sure of the route from the notch, we made our own. 3 short pitches of pretty funky climbing. Not too hard, but attention-getting. Descended L-snowfield below Sill.
My last CA 14er. Thanks RK for being there. (June 06)
A great climb up a classic route in hard water ice conditions. The berg was gaping open making for 28-32 ft of ~80 degree ice climbing right up the middle of it. 6 pitches total to the top of the notch: the first two were up the right side of the couloir and then the last 4 on the left or middle. Reached the top of the notch at 3:30PM, summited Polemonium in about an hour after traversing over, and then came down the "L-shaped" couloir on Sill to glacier notch - was <100 feet from the summit of Sill but bypassed it because I know I will be coming back anyway to do the Swiss Arete. In the end, a long day but a great ice climb. Can't wait for more sierra ice in the future ...