Located on the East Wall of Lovers Leap. Follow the directions from the Main Page
to get to Lovers Leap campground. From campground hike up South East on Pony Express trail. You will pass Hogsback on your left, and East Wall will be on your right. You will continue on this trail to the East side of the wall. The route is named Pop Bottle because of a rock formation at the base of the 1st pitch, which resembles a bottle. Located just left (east) of Haystack (5.8)
East Wall of Lovers Leap
According to sources, crux of the climb is getting over one of the bulges on first pitch. My partner and I thought first moves of second pitch were worth mentioning as cruxy material. I found this route to be a lot better than what I expected from the rating other people gave it, worth doing.
FA: Gene Drake, Mark Haymond, Larry Morris
Starts on the right side of "Pop Bottle" shaped rock, and follows a nice crack system, with dikes available for nice foot holds. Most of it is easy till you get to the start of several bulges that are obvious from the ground. The crux move of this climb (according to other sources) is getting above one of these bulges. Protection placements are available throughout this pitch and are perfect to protect the crux. To get over the crux move, jam your left hand higher (there is a hold available), lift up, jam your left foot into the crack, and move up. After that there are couple of other bulges that are fun to get over, the last one has a huge hold available. Followed by an easy scramble right to the belay ledge. Not too many cracks were available for good anchor placements, but huge boulders are there to sling.
If the climbers do not feel like climbing higher for whatever reason class 3 walk off is available. From the big ledge follow the path of least resistance east.
First move of second pitch is the second crux of this climb. It starts out as an awkward move onto the face. Is really exposed and no protection is available till the climber is able to clip into the bolt, which is about 15 feet off the ground. The move is directly over a steep drop to the base of 1st pitch, so as they say.."Don't fall!" After you are clipped into the bolt follow the crack up and a bit to the left. After the first move pitch is a lot easier, but a bit run out in places. Climb higher, and you will reach bolts which mark the end of 2nd pitch.
Is a fourth class walk off. Go up and to the left to get off the rock. Follow the trail down and back to the start of the route to pick up your belongings. I suggest hanging your back packs, to keep them away from vicious local animals.
I am leading 1st pitch
Almost done leading 1st pitch
Set of nuts and a set of cams up to #3 are nice to have. Person who went right before us free soloed this route, I guess minimal number of nuts is two.