Page Type
Wyoming, United States, North America
Route Type:
Technical Rock Climb
Time Required:
One to two days
III 5.8

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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Created On: Oct 22, 2004
Last Edited On: Oct 22, 2004


Approach same as for Owen/Spalding as far as the upper saddle.

Route Description

From the upper saddle. rather than following the Owen/Spalding ledges to the left (North), traverse right on easy ledges 125' until they stop at the base of a steep corner. Follow this corner (5.8) for 80', then up crack systems (5.6) to a comfortable ledge, This ledge (3rd) back left to re-join the Owen/Spalding at the base of the Sargent Chimneys.
This is a good alternative to the heavily travelled O/S durin July and August. Can be tricky and exciting, though, when wet or icy.

Essential Gear

Be prepared for cold, wintry conditions, even in mid-summer! The route is in the shade until mid-day, which is too late to avoid afternoon thunderstorms.
The Pownall/Gilkey has quite a bit of fixed gear on every pitch (mostly old pitons; beware!). A bit of gear is still needed, and may be useful in the Sargent Chimneys. 3 or 4 camming units and a small set of nuts should suffice, nothing bigger that 2". Bring more runners than you think you'll need.
Contrary to popular belief, 2 ropes are not neccessary on the Grand. A single 60M rope will get you down the standard rappel (Barely! Keep to the right as you rappel!) A single 50M rope will get you safely down the alternative descent. A new rappel station was installed 50M North of the standard rappel station in Aug '04. This will surely alleviate congestion at the standard station, but definately requires 2 ropes.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.


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