Climbed all 3 pitches which were in great condition. Ice was a little brittle due to the cold weather. To the right of Pitch 2, an optional 70m WI2 formed that led to a tree belay. Apparently this doesn't always form. Pitch 3 was lots of fun!
We parked on the south side of the TransCanada Highway 1.5km west of Pretty Nuts. This is a shorter approach than parking at the Kicking Horse rest area. We followed a boot pack behind the diversion wall and were able to avoid most of the highway walk.
Ian H. and I wanted to escape the deep freeze of the Alberta Rockies, the day we climbed 'Pretty Nuts' is was -30 in Lake Louise and only -10C on route. Fun route, too bad the expanded highway make the approach so long, back in the day you parked in the ditch and started climbing.
David Huang and I climbed this during our Christmas-New Years trip to the rockies in 2007. We ended up in Golden in search of cheaper accommodation and (relatively) snow-free roads. The route was good, although the discontinuity between the 2nd and 3rd pitches detracted a bit from the experience.
Of course all I heard all day was..."this is pretty nuts"...from Jayson....a reprieve however from our constant "harden da &*%# up's" at each other....super outing, 5th day straight of pump fest 2008...by far the warmest of the 6....need to explore this area more for sure