MtnMagic - Oct 18, 2013 12:32 am Date Climbed: Nov 11, 2012
Nice routee
Nice and steep route. The second pitch felt like the crux to me due to its sustained nature. Make sure you have a comfy harness!
jamesmc2 - Jul 26, 2010 1:50 am Date Climbed: Mar 12, 2001
1/4
This was one of my first multi pitch climbs. I did it back when it was all 1/4". The route requires much more calf strength than anything else. When we pulled our ropes they would crack like giant whips which echoed through the canyon. March was still pretty cold.
atavist - Jan 12, 2010 2:33 am Date Climbed: Jan 10, 2010
Meet at the big rock in Mojave at dawn
Can´t really add any beta for this route, just start at the base and follow the bolts. Scored a partner at the campground late the previous evening and finally managed to knock this off the ticklist. I led pitches 2,3,4 & 6. It may be possible to hit every station on rap with a single 70m. Most of the climb requires some balance but the crux was definitely a power move for me, albeit with tricky foot placements. Very enjoyable route, however that may be proportional to your personal tolerance to hanging in your harness and standing on edges - so advise to climb quickly.
Added bonus:
- the low clearance approach road has re-opened since my last visit to BV Canyon
- I didn´t miss my flight at 18h50m from McCarran
Dave S - May 17, 2009 12:01 am Date Climbed: May 15, 2009
Prince of Darkness
Climbed with Justin M in a day trip from LA! Great climbing! Left LA at about 6:30am, started climbing at 12:30 (just as the climb went into the shade!), and was back at the car at about 8 pm. The previous weekend I led the odd pitches on DOWT, so this time I got to lead the even pitches, meaning I was lucky enough to get the awesome second pitch and the fun moves on the 6th pitch. After pizza at Rocco's, made it back to LA around 2:30am. Great day!!
I had a blast on this route! The route goes straight up and is very well protected. Gear up to 1.25 inches is plenty + a lot of quickdraws. Climbed with my friend Rudy who did all the leading.
I thought it would be beyond my climbing ability but I was happy with my performance (having not climbed in over a month). A lot of crimpers which made my fingers and toes sore on that chilly/breezy day.
We had 70M half ropes. Going up we linked P1+P2. We came down in 4 rappels (connected P6+P5, and P2+P1).
The difficulty is sustained and the exposure really cool!
This was a pretty fun climb; my recollections of the day - I was cold and my kidneys were sore from the hanging belays. I thought all the pitches were pretty straightforward. Rapelling done was the crux - man, do those ropes come whizzing down when you pull them. Scared the beejesus out of me.
It's the same moves over and over and over. not much of a prince
forjan - Nov 10, 2008 1:00 pm Date Climbed: Nov 8, 2008
PoD
Didn't get too far on this one. Climbed it with Will. Had a long desert approach as we mistakenly parked at on a dirt pullout just next to Hwy 160. This made for a late start on the route on an already short day (dark by 5PM). Did the first two pitches and bailed off. Pitch 2 was sustained.
Dow Williams - Oct 14, 2008 11:02 am Date Climbed: Oct 2, 2008
Prince of Darkness
Not my best day to be sure. Just did Secret Tryst (5.11b) in Lime Kiln Canyon the day before, a very painfull limestone route. My fingers and toes were in no mood. However, it got better as the day progressed, we both enjoyed our last leads, pitches 5 and 6. Dream of Wild Turkeys is a much better route, but POD is worth doing if too many folks are on DWT. Most of my gear from .3 to 1" came in handy.
MtnMagic - Oct 18, 2013 12:32 am Date Climbed: Nov 11, 2012
Nice routeeNice and steep route. The second pitch felt like the crux to me due to its sustained nature. Make sure you have a comfy harness!
jamesmc2 - Jul 26, 2010 1:50 am Date Climbed: Mar 12, 2001
1/4This was one of my first multi pitch climbs. I did it back when it was all 1/4". The route requires much more calf strength than anything else. When we pulled our ropes they would crack like giant whips which echoed through the canyon. March was still pretty cold.
atavist - Jan 12, 2010 2:33 am Date Climbed: Jan 10, 2010
Meet at the big rock in Mojave at dawnCan´t really add any beta for this route, just start at the base and follow the bolts. Scored a partner at the campground late the previous evening and finally managed to knock this off the ticklist. I led pitches 2,3,4 & 6. It may be possible to hit every station on rap with a single 70m. Most of the climb requires some balance but the crux was definitely a power move for me, albeit with tricky foot placements. Very enjoyable route, however that may be proportional to your personal tolerance to hanging in your harness and standing on edges - so advise to climb quickly.
Added bonus:
- the low clearance approach road has re-opened since my last visit to BV Canyon
- I didn´t miss my flight at 18h50m from McCarran
Dave S - May 17, 2009 12:01 am Date Climbed: May 15, 2009
Prince of DarknessClimbed with Justin M in a day trip from LA! Great climbing! Left LA at about 6:30am, started climbing at 12:30 (just as the climb went into the shade!), and was back at the car at about 8 pm. The previous weekend I led the odd pitches on DOWT, so this time I got to lead the even pitches, meaning I was lucky enough to get the awesome second pitch and the fun moves on the 6th pitch. After pizza at Rocco's, made it back to LA around 2:30am. Great day!!
bfrench - Apr 30, 2009 10:10 pm
PODCrazy fun.
bighornmonkey - Apr 6, 2009 2:34 pm Date Climbed: Apr 5, 2009
Really enjoyed itI had a blast on this route! The route goes straight up and is very well protected. Gear up to 1.25 inches is plenty + a lot of quickdraws. Climbed with my friend Rudy who did all the leading.
I thought it would be beyond my climbing ability but I was happy with my performance (having not climbed in over a month). A lot of crimpers which made my fingers and toes sore on that chilly/breezy day.
We had 70M half ropes. Going up we linked P1+P2. We came down in 4 rappels (connected P6+P5, and P2+P1).
The difficulty is sustained and the exposure really cool!
AJones - Mar 3, 2009 2:15 pm
Great ClimbThis was a pretty fun climb; my recollections of the day - I was cold and my kidneys were sore from the hanging belays. I thought all the pitches were pretty straightforward. Rapelling done was the crux - man, do those ropes come whizzing down when you pull them. Scared the beejesus out of me.
TRP - Dec 7, 2008 12:59 pm
Prince of DarknessIt's the same moves over and over and over. not much of a prince
forjan - Nov 10, 2008 1:00 pm Date Climbed: Nov 8, 2008
PoDDidn't get too far on this one. Climbed it with Will. Had a long desert approach as we mistakenly parked at on a dirt pullout just next to Hwy 160. This made for a late start on the route on an already short day (dark by 5PM). Did the first two pitches and bailed off. Pitch 2 was sustained.
Dow Williams - Oct 14, 2008 11:02 am Date Climbed: Oct 2, 2008
Prince of DarknessNot my best day to be sure. Just did Secret Tryst (5.11b) in Lime Kiln Canyon the day before, a very painfull limestone route. My fingers and toes were in no mood. However, it got better as the day progressed, we both enjoyed our last leads, pitches 5 and 6. Dream of Wild Turkeys is a much better route, but POD is worth doing if too many folks are on DWT. Most of my gear from .3 to 1" came in handy.