Dow Williams - Mar 10, 2021 9:24 am Date Climbed: Mar 7, 2021
11 years later....
I hit it again, this time with Danny U. He had yet to climb it. We used Buffon's Needle Problem, 5.10, on Jackrabbit to make a stellar link up. Again, I went up and left. That move is crimpy! Danny stayed up and right. The 2nd pitch is pretty damn good, but not 5.10b as it was originally published to be. One of the worst epics I have witnessed in a bit was unfolding on Nightcrawler, including crying and non stop arguing. Pretty sure they ended up spending the night up there or got rescued I guess. Would be nice if folks were fit and started out a little earlier to assist their lack of abilities. If those two's relationship survived that, someone is a glutton for punishment.
Dow Williams - Jan 15, 2010 4:15 pm Date Climbed: Jan 6, 2010
Pro Choice
That key pitch is on some incredible black rock, typical of high up on Brownstone Wall. Just one 5.11, well protected move, which I did with a balanced reach on slick rock, my partner stemmed it which I thought was more difficult. My move might be height dependent. NOTICE ON RAPPEL. I have climbed High Anxiety and knew there was no lower rap as per the book description, but thought a rap station might have been added out left. Not so, we had to leave a biner on one of the bolts on the 2nd pitch of High Anxiety. At the top of the 3rd pitch of Pro Choice on a huge ledge are two rap stations. The right one leads down to the the 2nd pitch station which needs another link or biner, then doubles should get you to the ground. The left one is the one that no longer connects lower down, but is where you need to belay that 4th pitch.
Dow Williams - Mar 10, 2021 9:24 am Date Climbed: Mar 7, 2021
11 years later....I hit it again, this time with Danny U. He had yet to climb it. We used Buffon's Needle Problem, 5.10, on Jackrabbit to make a stellar link up. Again, I went up and left. That move is crimpy! Danny stayed up and right. The 2nd pitch is pretty damn good, but not 5.10b as it was originally published to be. One of the worst epics I have witnessed in a bit was unfolding on Nightcrawler, including crying and non stop arguing. Pretty sure they ended up spending the night up there or got rescued I guess. Would be nice if folks were fit and started out a little earlier to assist their lack of abilities. If those two's relationship survived that, someone is a glutton for punishment.
Dow Williams - Jan 15, 2010 4:15 pm Date Climbed: Jan 6, 2010
Pro ChoiceThat key pitch is on some incredible black rock, typical of high up on Brownstone Wall. Just one 5.11, well protected move, which I did with a balanced reach on slick rock, my partner stemmed it which I thought was more difficult. My move might be height dependent. NOTICE ON RAPPEL. I have climbed High Anxiety and knew there was no lower rap as per the book description, but thought a rap station might have been added out left. Not so, we had to leave a biner on one of the bolts on the 2nd pitch of High Anxiety. At the top of the 3rd pitch of Pro Choice on a huge ledge are two rap stations. The right one leads down to the the 2nd pitch station which needs another link or biner, then doubles should get you to the ground. The left one is the one that no longer connects lower down, but is where you need to belay that 4th pitch.