We are thinking 5.9 flared chimney, we'll it probably like Valley 5.7, oh no, full on. Relatively short though, overhanging flared squeeze chimney. And then some 7 inch business on the last pitch. Did the route car to car in 16 hours because getting permitted is such a pain. Route comes highly recommended.
Perfectly clear day, high winds at Prusik Pass. Did a variation of the 1st pitch (5.7) and met up at the 2nd pitch of the exposed slab climbing that wasn't as bad as I had heard. Short traverse on the exposed ridge from there, simul climbed to the base of the 3rd pitch, had fun wityh the 5,6 hand crack and the 5.6 flake that hits the ledge near the 5.8 chimney or the 5.6 chimney. I opted for the 5.6 to the summit. Windy on top, hard to hear each other even with radios. Rope drag happens, accept it. 4 raps down to the base of the climb, dont do double rope rappels as they say, easier with one rope. Replace old runners if you can.
Departed parking lot 12:00pm saturday (due to hangover) and hike to the upper enchanments, and secured a hidden campsite due to lack of appropriate permits. Headed off to the climb at 6:00am Sunday and arrived to find a party of three and a party of 4 ahead of us, Doh! No big deal though. The skies were clear though the wind was really howlin. The climbing is great, the best actually. The friction slab is a good test as is the very exposed traverse that follows. The final 5.4 chimney is not noticable, so I opted for the 5.8 direct crack. The guide book calls it a chimney, I guess to them chimney means nearly off width crack in a dihedral with thin holds. It seemed harder than 5.8, but everything seems harder when the wind is whippin' and the exposure is grand. View from the summit is great. Breing two ropes for te rappel as it will go much faster.
My second time on this fine route. Much more fun the second time, cause I took no extra gear, and never doubted where the route went. If I do it a third time, I'll take even less gear, and do it in a day from the trailhead, saving the interminable trudge with a backpack.