Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: June 12, 2004
After a failed attempt on Mount Temple (June 11) from our camp at Nada Lake, we moved up to a very nice bivy site at Lake Vivian for an attempt on Prusik. The weather in the morning was excellent and we were even visited by a family of mountain goats (including baby). The first two pitches went smoothly, but on reaching the ridge crest, we saw some nasty looking clouds coming in from the south. We hurried on to the summit just before the first snow started to fall. After 5 rappels from the summit, we arrived on steep snow slopes (apparently the normal traverse ledges were still well buried). We realized quickly that traversing 50 degree snow in rock shoes is virtually impossible, so we opted for a belayed traverse of the north face itself (about 3 pitches of low fifth-class). We finally arrived back at Prusik Pass and hurried all the way down to the Snow Lakes TH (a very long descent). Very nice climb in a spectacular alpine area.
Route Climbed: South Face...Bergner?Stanley Date Climbed: Sep 4, 2003
We are thinking 5.9 flared chimney, we'll it probably like Valley 5.7, oh no, full on. Relatively short though, overhanging flared squeeze chimney. And then some 7 inch business on the last pitch. Did the route car to car in 16 hours because getting permitted is such a pain. Route comes highly recommended.
Route Climbed: West Ridge (Quest Alb Variation) Date Climbed: October 6, 2002
Perfectly clear day, high winds at Prusik Pass. Did a variation of the 1st pitch (5.7) and met up at the 2nd pitch of the exposed slab climbing that wasn't as bad as I had heard. Short traverse on the exposed ridge from there, simul climbed to the base of the 3rd pitch, had fun wityh the 5,6 hand crack and the 5.6 flake that hits the ledge near the 5.8 chimney or the 5.6 chimney. I opted for the 5.6 to the summit. Windy on top, hard to hear each other even with radios. Rope drag happens, accept it. 4 raps down to the base of the climb, dont do double rope rappels as they say, easier with one rope. Replace old runners if you can.
Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: October 6, 2002
Departed parking lot 12:00pm saturday (due to hangover) and hike to the upper enchanments, and secured a hidden campsite due to lack of appropriate permits. Headed off to the climb at 6:00am Sunday and arrived to find a party of three and a party of 4 ahead of us, Doh! No big deal though. The skies were clear though the wind was really howlin. The climbing is great, the best actually. The friction slab is a good test as is the very exposed traverse that follows. The final 5.4 chimney is not noticable, so I opted for the 5.8 direct crack. The guide book calls it a chimney, I guess to them chimney means nearly off width crack in a dihedral with thin holds. It seemed harder than 5.8, but everything seems harder when the wind is whippin' and the exposure is grand. View from the summit is great. Breing two ropes for te rappel as it will go much faster.
My second time on this fine route. Much more fun the second time, cause I took no extra gear, and never doubted where the route went. If I do it a third time, I'll take even less gear, and do it in a day from the trailhead, saving the interminable trudge with a backpack.
Gail J - Aug 15, 2004 1:51 pm
Route Climbed: West Ridge. Date Climbed: Aug. 27, 2002We made this a 3 day trip, which made it quite pleasant climb.
Tom Fralich - Jun 14, 2004 6:10 pm
Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: June 12, 2004After a failed attempt on Mount Temple (June 11) from our camp at Nada Lake, we moved up to a very nice bivy site at Lake Vivian for an attempt on Prusik. The weather in the morning was excellent and we were even visited by a family of mountain goats (including baby). The first two pitches went smoothly, but on reaching the ridge crest, we saw some nasty looking clouds coming in from the south. We hurried on to the summit just before the first snow started to fall. After 5 rappels from the summit, we arrived on steep snow slopes (apparently the normal traverse ledges were still well buried). We realized quickly that traversing 50 degree snow in rock shoes is virtually impossible, so we opted for a belayed traverse of the north face itself (about 3 pitches of low fifth-class). We finally arrived back at Prusik Pass and hurried all the way down to the Snow Lakes TH (a very long descent). Very nice climb in a spectacular alpine area.
brandon - Sep 5, 2003 12:56 pm
Route Climbed: South Face...Bergner?Stanley Date Climbed: Sep 4, 2003We are thinking 5.9 flared chimney, we'll it probably like Valley 5.7, oh no, full on. Relatively short though, overhanging flared squeeze chimney. And then some 7 inch business on the last pitch. Did the route car to car in 16 hours because getting permitted is such a pain. Route comes highly recommended.
scot'teryx - Oct 15, 2002 12:13 pm
Route Climbed: West Ridge (Quest Alb Variation) Date Climbed: October 6, 2002Perfectly clear day, high winds at Prusik Pass. Did a variation of the 1st pitch (5.7) and met up at the 2nd pitch of the exposed slab climbing that wasn't as bad as I had heard. Short traverse on the exposed ridge from there, simul climbed to the base of the 3rd pitch, had fun wityh the 5,6 hand crack and the 5.6 flake that hits the ledge near the 5.8 chimney or the 5.6 chimney. I opted for the 5.6 to the summit. Windy on top, hard to hear each other even with radios. Rope drag happens, accept it. 4 raps down to the base of the climb, dont do double rope rappels as they say, easier with one rope. Replace old runners if you can.
geoffcasey - Oct 7, 2002 11:49 am
Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: October 6, 2002Departed parking lot 12:00pm saturday (due to hangover) and hike to the upper enchanments, and secured a hidden campsite due to lack of appropriate permits. Headed off to the climb at 6:00am Sunday and arrived to find a party of three and a party of 4 ahead of us, Doh! No big deal though. The skies were clear though the wind was really howlin. The climbing is great, the best actually. The friction slab is a good test as is the very exposed traverse that follows. The final 5.4 chimney is not noticable, so I opted for the 5.8 direct crack. The guide book calls it a chimney, I guess to them chimney means nearly off width crack in a dihedral with thin holds. It seemed harder than 5.8, but everything seems harder when the wind is whippin' and the exposure is grand. View from the summit is great. Breing two ropes for te rappel as it will go much faster.
darinchadwick - Mar 29, 2002 5:16 am
Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: July 1999My second time on this fine route. Much more fun the second time, cause I took no extra gear, and never doubted where the route went. If I do it a third time, I'll take even less gear, and do it in a day from the trailhead, saving the interminable trudge with a backpack.