I've looked at this route every time I've gone into the North Face Cirque throughout the year. When I spoke with Dean about it, he said he climbed in too early in the year. (Meaning late spring is when it would be more ripe), I was there the last day of May and in my opinion I was still too early. Now that June is 1/2 over (two weeks after the climb) I wonder if there is less snow and even more ice in there right now. I bet there is.