Punta della Rossa (Rothorn)

Page Type
Verbania - Wallis, Italy/Switzerland, Europe
Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing
9471 ft / 2887 m
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Punta della Rossa (Rothorn)
Created On: May 19, 2004
Last Edited On: Nov 19, 2007


Together with the nearby Pizzi di Crampiolo and the (easier) Monte Cervandone the Punta della Rossa is one of the really interesting mountains of the Alpe Devero.

The Punta della Rossa is a rocky mountain, very smart, with a fantastic gneiss rock (like Gran Paradiso's one) and some very amusing rock routes.
Rothorn (2887)

Getting There

Two main ways to get here :

from Italy
along the Sempione highway to Crodo, then Baceno and Goglio.
Once there was a telpher from Goglio to Alpe Devero, now it takes 1 hour of comfortable walk along a mule track.

from Switzerland
From Briga follow the road 19 (toward Furkapass) till Lax.
By a narrow road cross Ernen, Ausserbinn arriving to Binn (1401 m).
From here 2 different approaches :
toward northern side - from Binn by road till Feld (1538 m)
toward western side - from Binn on foot till Heilighreuz (1472 m)

Routes overview

From Alpe Devero - its high quality rock allows very amusing climbs of all difficulties :

normal route - a scrambling route (hikers should better use a rope) along the south side, along a ravine, till the west ridge.
south wall - Via Ombre Rosse - an extreme but well protected route
here a fine (italian) description with a good route-map

south-east edge - very amusing, the most climbed route (AD/D - 350 m )
here a fine (italian) description with a good route-map
second pitch
the 4th pitch
the 6th pitch
the 8th pitch
the 9th pitch
we were the only rope team here and the route was easy enough to take pics

east wall - Via Nuovo Millennio - ED - 400 m drop

from Switzerland PD - from Feld to Schmidigenhäusern and to the Geisspfadpass (2469 m), cross the northern side of the mountain till the west ridge and then to the summit (5-6 hours)

When To Climb

summer !
from july to september

Red Tape

Devero is a natural park, rich of minerals (beware of asbestos), flora (lots of mush-rooms in fall) and faun ... keep them !!

Camping - Accomodations

no camping allowed
Best base if Capanna Enrico Castiglioni all’Alpe Devero (1640 m)
(once was Rifugio Gallarate)