Punta Emma

Page Type
Italy, Europe
Trad Climbing
8563 ft / 2610 m
5091 Hits
83.1% Score
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Punta Emma
Created On: Jun 30, 2011
Last Edited On: Jul 3, 2011


Goodbye to the cirquePunta Emma is the massive rock on the left side of the U-shaped gully.
Punta Emma is a northern spur of the main Rosengarten peak, but deserves it's own page. It's treated as a summit by climbers because of at least 4 amazing classic rock climbs on it's flanks. It's only when you reach the top that you see across a gap the towering North Summit of Rosengarten and realize you hardly did anything. Still, the routes average 10 pitches in length and make for a fine half day.

Getting There

On Punta EmmaTypical climbing on Punta Emma, the Vajolet Hut below...
From Rifugio Vajolet or Prueß (humorously sitting 20 paces away from the first hut), the Punta Emma dominates the view on the west side. Choose one of several routes to reach the top, described from left to right:

  • Fehrmann - IV, ~10 pitches. On the far left, generally straight up. The grade is not that difficult, but the climbing is sustained in the lower pitches.

  • Steger - V+, 11 pitches. A fantastic climb, starting with an easy ledge traversing up from right to left to reach steep ground just right of the Fehrmann route.

  • Piaz - V, 6 pitches. A very good and classic climb with a difficult chimney pitch.

  • Eisenstein - VI, ~10 pitches. I need to find more information on this, but this route looks very good from a picture I've seen.

Getting down

From the summit, follow the West Ridge gently down about 30 meters (cairns). The ridge steepens, and cairns lead you more steeply down the north side of the ridge for a bit. At an apparent "dead end," you need to downclimb about 8 meters of grade III to reach a ring bolt abseil station. From here, make a 25 meter rappel into the deep notch between Punta Emma and the main Rosengarten peak. Now downclimb the gully easily (II) towards the trail from the Vajolet Hut and the Vajolet Spires. In June there may be snow and moats in the gully, but by scrambling on the side you can avoid unpleasant contact.