Punta Fanes Sud - Via ferrata Tomaselli

Page Type
Route
Location:
Dolomiti, Italy, Europe
Route Type:
Via Ferrata
Season:
Summer, Fall
Time Required:
Most of a day
Difficulty:
Hard ferrata

Route Quality: 2 Votes

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Punta Fanes Sud - Via ferrata Tomaselli
Created On: Sep 4, 2008
Last Edited On: Oct 16, 2009

Intro

Punta Fanes Sud (2.980 mtrs) is a 2nd highest summit of Fanes group, which is situated north of Grande Lagazuoi and Falzarego Pass. The summit can be reached by the remarkable Via Ferrata Cesco Tomaselli over the SW face and first tower on the Cresta di Fanes. This is a very good quality route, perfectly secured and technically hard in places.
Fanes group and Lagazuoi grandeFanes group and Lagazuoi grande with Punta Fanes Sud in the center
A part of Fanes group...A part of Fanes group with Punta Fanes Sud summit on the right

Approach

Punta Fanes Sud (2.980 mtrs)Punta Fanes Sud from Bivacco della Chiesa
Punta Fanes Sud (2.980 mtrs)View of Punta Fanes Sud from south-east of Forcella Grande
The approach to the route is from historical Falzarego Pass by the cable car, which will take you to Lagazuoi refuge. From there descend with route No. 20 to Forcella Lagazuoi and continue along the west side of Lagazuoi Grande range. Then take route No. 20b at the signposted junction which will lead you the bottom of the rock face. The route now ascends towards Forcella Grande and levelled plateau with Bivacco della Chiesa where ferrata starts.

Ferrata Tomaselli facts

Sketch of the routeSketch of the Tomaselli route
Maximum height: 2.980 mtrs

Total ascent: 500 mtrs
Total ferrata ascent: 300 mtrs
Total ferrata descent: 300 mtrs
Total descent: 1000 mtrs

Grade:

Italian grading: 5
French grading: D+
Fletcher/Smith grading: 5C

Ascent/descent time:

Cable car station (Lagazuoi refuge) - Bivacco della Chiesa: 1-1,5 hours
Bivacco della Chiesa - Punta Fanes Sud summit: 1,5-2 hours

Punta Fanes Sud summit - Forcela dei Quaire: 1 hour
Forcela dei Quaire - Falzarego Pass: 1,5-2 hours

Route Description

Detail from ferrata TomaselliClimbers on famous traverse called 'the nose' at the start of ferrata Cesco Tomaselli
Climbing ferrata TomaselliClimbing ferrata Tomaselli
Best way for this route is to make clockwise circuit from the Bivacco della Chiesa and to end your day with a walk down to Falzarego pass, or you can ascent back to Lagazuoi refuge and use the cable car for return. The ferrata starts with famous traverse leftwards called 'the nose', which is immediately strenuous and exposed. It continues up over vertical exposed walls towards central section of the face. At this part you will see another route going left to Cima Scotoni with Alta Via Fanis route. We follow wire rope that goes in the right direction towards a terrace, which is a good place to take a break. From there you have to climb a series of steep walls until you reach the crest, called 'a cheval'. The final obstacle is very exposed, vertical slab which lead to the summit of Punta Fanes Sud.

Descending route from the summit goes over the NE face and it is fixed with cables from the beginning. It is initially steep and well protected, but easier than the ascent at the grade of 3/3C/AD. On this route there are also some quite difficult passages, among which the hardest passage is a short squarecut chimney. Ferrata finishes when you reach the end of the cable at Forcella dei Quaire. Now route continues down over the scree slopes towards Forcella Grasser and further more to Forcella Travenanzes (route No. 20b). From there you have to descend final part of the returning route No. 402 to Falzarego pass.

Route photos

Ferrata TomaselliAt the middle part of ferrata Tomaselli
Famous traverse  the nose Traverse 'the nose' on ferrata Tomaselli
Detail from ferrata TomaselliDetail from ferrata Tomaselli
Ferrata TomaselliClimbing final steep walls on ferrata Tomaselli
Approaching a terrace...Approaching a terrace...
Detail from ferrata TomaselliDetail from ferrata Tomaselli
View down on ferrata TomaselliView down on ferrata Tomaselli
Ferrata TomaselliClimbing ferrata Tomaselli
Climbers on final vertical slab...Climbers on final vertical slab
View towards Lagazuoi plateau...View towards Lagazuoi plateau
Final vertical slab on ferrata TomaselliFinal vertical slab on ferrata Tomaselli
Detail from ferrata Tomaselli routeVertical orientation of ferrata Tomaselli

Panorama views from ferrata Cesco Tomaselli

View towards Marmolada and Sella groupView towards Marmolada and Sella group from via ferrata Cesco Tomaselli during ascent on Punta Fanes Sud
Lagazuoi GrandeLagazuoi Grande as seen from via ferrata Tomaselli on Punta Fanes Sud
Marmolada (3.342 mtrs)Marmolada from ferrata Tomaselli
View from ferrata TomaselliView from ferrata Tomaselli on Punta Fanes Sud towards Val Badia mountains. On the right you can see a part of Piz dles Conturines
Sella group...Sella group seen while climbing ferrata Tomasseli
View towards the southView towards the south

Essential Gear

The via ferrata gear and good shoes.

Maps

TABACCO 03 - Cortina D'Ampezzo and Dolimiti Ampezzane - 1:25.000

Bibliography

Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites: Vol 1.
By John Smith and Graham Fletcher
Cicerone Press 2002
Revised & reprinted 2004
Hanging By A ThreadVelebit - Very difficult airy traverse called 'The Nose'

Weather conditions

Excellent weather forecast for Dolomiti area can be received from following site
www.arpa.veneto.it under section Dolomiti Meteo.






Punta Fanes Sud - Via ferrata Tomaselli

Route
29 Images 6 Climber's Log Entries 6 Comments 0 Additions & Corrections

Geography

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Parents

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