Punta Marguareis is the highest point of Ligurian Alps ( Cadibona’s pass – Tenda’s pass ) and this mountain is considered by alpinists the queen of Ligurian Alps.
Its summit reach 2651 meters..
It’s placed between Pesio valley – Italy - ( north side ),the upper Tanaro valley – Italy - ( south-east side ) and Roya valley – France - ( south-west side ).
•The north face is formed by a great barrier which break off the Pesio’s valley with a long “Dolomitic” face and vertical spurs. This face is easy recognizable, but at the first time, if observed from the first part of valley, is a long horizontal ridge, not prominent. If we come near the mountain, we can notice its very nature: a maze of spires and snowly grooves for a long period during the year.
•The south face is an anonimous grassy dome, not much notable. This face not much sloping, is purely Karst ( Carsico in Italian ), with many hollows.
MARGUAREIS NORTH FACE
The south side of mountain: if our provenience are the coast of Ligurian Sea, exit at Imperia Est ( Oneglia ) toolgate ( Autoroute A10 Genova – Ventimiglia ) and follow the road sign to Pontedassio, Chiusavecchia, Cesio, Pieve di Teco, Col di Nava ( 947 mt ), Nava, Ponte di Nava, Pornassimo, Viozene, Carnino.
The noth side of mountain : if our provenience are the Padanian plane, exit at Mondovì toolgate ( Autoroute A6 Torino – Savona ) and follow the road sign to Mondovì, Villanova Mondovì, Roccaforte Mondovì, Chiusa di Pesio, Vigna, S.Bartolomeo, Certosa di Pesio ( 659 mt ).
• From Piano of Gorre ( 1032 mt ) follow the itinerary toward Piero Garelli refuge ( 1965 mt, 2 hours and 30 minutes, suggestion : to stay overnight).
The main interesting point during the route are : a construction of Gias Sottano Sestrera ( 1331 mt ). Here, follow toward east, the route pass near Giaset ( 1546 mt ) and the Gias Soprano Sestrera ( 1842 mt ); one last effort for this day and we reach the refuge Garelli.
The day after, the route trespass a secondary ridge of massif, with a brief upward slope and so on a long downward slope, near a little lake of Marguareis ( 1928 mt ).
Another crossroad, turn left ( always east ) as far as Col of Torinesi ( 2448 mt, 2 hours ).
Here turn toward right ( west ) and follow a slope with red signals; this path is formed by short grass and pebbles as far as a big grassy shoulder ( 2500 mt ).
Now the path procedeed toward north-north-west, near an isolated rocky spur ( frequently strong wind); we’re in the final oriental ridge ( 2610 mt ). Suggestion: this final path run along the left. The summit is near; a final effort and we’re at the top of Marguareis ( 2651 mt , 40 minutes ) where’s a big metallic crux.
•From Carnino Superiore we start to follow the path toward Colle dei Signori and at Refuge Don Barbera; after 45 minutes, we go at right a steep slope ( Pass delle Mastrelle ) as far as a big and particular rock. We continue toward col del Pas near bivouac Saracco Volante
We leave the path for the Pas and we climb toward left a little lane ( red paint sign ) through a big groove and some rocky spurs. We arrive at Palù’s pass 2485 mt ( or Capra’s pass, in english Goat’s pass ) between Cima Bozano ( 2564 mt ) and Cima Palù.
From here we can enjoy an amazing view of Punta Marguareis. A brief steep descent ( some difficult passages – EE – Attention ) and we’re at the upper part of groove of Torinesi.
We climb toward left and after directly to the summit.
This itinerary with a slow-normal pace can be solved in 3 hours and 30 minutes. The descent in 2 hours and 45 minutes. Total time ( 6 hours and 15 minutes ).
Recommend map : IGC 1:25.000, sheet 114
Helmet, ice axe, crampons, rope.
Punta Marguareis is placed inside the Natural Park of upper Pesio and Tanaro’s valley
CHIUSA DI PESIO
I thank CEDAD
and your friend Michele Montanari to insert this beautiful pictures!!
If you have any type of informations please send me an e mail, photos etc.
Parco Naturale Alta Valle Pesio e Tanaro
Rifugio Garelli: (0171)738078
APT Tourist Information, Cuneo: (0171)66615
APT Tourist Information, Limone Piemonte: (0171)92101
External Link Marguareis Canalone Genovesi