Punta S.Anna from Punta Torelli.
Also called in Val Bondasca "Badiletto", due to the closeness to the bigger Pizzo Badile
With the Punta Torelli
, together parts of the same mountain placed at the union point of three boundaries, that divide the Val Bondasca on the North side(Switzerland), the Val Codera and the Val Porcellizzo(Italy) on the south side.
It is totally composed by the beautyful granite typical of this
region, and it looks very wild and inaccessible from every sides, especially if seen from the Val Bondasca(north), where it rise above it with an edge 600 meters high.(this edge hosts the VI° route of W.Bonatti).
The summit is formed by two pinnacles, one 30cm higher that the other, and this is(for who will be able to reach it) a very good point of view to the impressive west wall of Pizzo Badile.
The walls of this mountain, host many classic and modern climbing routes, all of them quite difficult.
Even the "normal route"(that should be the easyest way), ramains a goob challenge never less than III°.
Getting ThereFrom SWISS:
The approach from Swiss is quite long:most part of the mountain is situated in Italian territory.
The best way to get it is overriding the Passo della Trubinasca (2701m - two hours from Cab Sasc Furà): this route allows to "discover" the west side.
Another way is the crossing of the Passo Porcellizzo (2862m), that connects the Val Codera to the Val Porcellizzo and also to reach the refuge Gianetti and the East side.
Cab Sasc Fura'is placed in Val Bondasca. (600m EE - Two hours from Laret).
Punta S.Anna is placed at the head of Val Codera.
A bivouac called Pedroni del Pra',permits to take a break during this very long approach. From Novate Mezzola in 6/7 hours.
To Novate Mezzola by car on road SS36.
Otherwise by busses or trains from Milan and Sondrio.
(Val Porcellizzo-Val Masino)
The best way and confortable.
The refuge Gianetti, is the local hut: good path from "Bagni del Masino" in 3/4 hours.
"Bagni del Masino" is the last house group of the valley. Reachable by cars or busses from Ardenno in Valtellina,road SP404.
Trains and busses from Milan and Sondrio.
Routes and HistoryENE ridge:
A.Bonacossa,A.Polvara 18/08/1921.From Colle Badiletto(1.30h III°).
L.Binaghi,B.Capitani,E.Fasana 30/08/1914.From ref.Gianetti(3h III°+).
SE wall-SW ridge:
A.Balabio,A.Nava 03/08/1911.From ref.Gianetti(III°/III°+).
R.balabio,G.Scotti 11/08/1909.From ref.Gianetti(3h III°/IV°).Very nice.
A.Bonacossa,C.Negri 17/08/1934.From ref.Gianetti(400m IV°).
A.Rydzewsky,A.Dandrea,C.Klucker 12/06/1899.From ref.Sasc Furà(10h D+/TD).
W.Bonatti,P.Nava 06/08/1950.From ref.Sasc Furà(600m V°/VI°).Also First winter ascent.A.Giovanoli,B.Giovanoli 12/1974.
AccomodationsRefuge Sasc Furà
1904m - CAS sez. Bregaglia
open from 01 July to 15 September.
From Bondo-Laret 2 hours(EE).
2534m - CAI sez. Milano
92 places / 12 in the winter room
open from 01 July to 15 September.
Tel.0039/0342.645161. Warden tel.0039/0342.641068.
From "Bagni del Masino" 3/4 hours(E).
Bivouac Pedroni del Prà
2600m - CAI Novate Mezzola
9 places,always open.
From Novate Mezzola 6/7 hours(E).
Books Maps and LinksBooks:
-A.Bonacossa/G.Rossi.Masino Bregaglia Disgrazia."Guide dei Monti d'Italia" vol.II TCI 1975
-Miotti/Gogna."Dal Pizzo Badile al Bernina".Zanichelli - 1986
-"Masino-Bregaglia-Disgrazia" G.Maspes and G.Miotti "Guida delle Guide"
-Kompass - Chiavenna-Val Bregaglia 92/93 1/50000
-Swiss topographic maps: Val Bregaglia # 1276 and Sciora # 1296 1/50000