Punte di Campiglio

Punte di Campiglio

Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 46.15891°N / 10.86102°E
Activities Activities: Trad Climbing
Seasons Season: Summer
Additional Information Elevation: 9741 ft / 2969 m
Sign the Climber's Log


This twin summit is :
  • the southern curtain of Vallone del Brentei (the valley between the Sfulmini and the Cima Brenta big wall)
  • the first mountain you can see (on the left) arriving from Casinei to the Rifugio Brentei
  • the most unconsciously "walked" summit of the group : lots of hikers walk along its walls while arriving to Rifugio Brentei, the last part of the path, the one with the gallery, some exposed ledges and very steep channels, is running along the lower part of its W wall and the easier high path of the group (the Sentiero SOSAT) runs along its ledges on the southern, western and northern walls ...

    but very few people get the summit of this mountain ...
    I myself have never done it: most of the climbers, spending time at Rifugio Brentei and willing to climb the huge overhanging wall, normally stop their "adventure" at the big ledge that cuts the very high wall (over 700 metres) in its middle part and get back to the Refuge ... and it's a real pity because the higher part of the wall looks very fine !

    Punte di Campiglio

    There are some answers to "way not climb to the summit ?"
    - the wall is 700 metres high, not a simple walk !
    - climbing the wall requires a good weather day
    - there are many other more famous summits all round
    - no fine easy route to the summit
    so, even if on its N side the jellow and black wall overhanging the SOSAT path, and very well visible from Rifugio Tuckett, hosts one of the most difficult aided routes of the group (the Maestri-Baldessari) this mountain is almost neglected

    Getting There and accomodations

    the accesses to the sides of the mountains are all along the paths joining the refuges Brentei and Tuckett
  • the lower one, through the Sella del Fridolin
  • the higher one along the "Sentiero SOSAT"

    From Madonna di Campiglio south border follow the route (4 km) to Malga Vallesinella (the key to enter central Brenta chains)
    Taxi-bus service, parking.
    In front of the Hotel there is a wooden structure, pass under it and follow the signs for : Casinei - Brentei - Tuckett.
    Cross a rill with a fine wooden bridge and follow the path in the hood till the Casinei (mt 1800)

    now, following the right path (318) in 2 h walk to Brentei while following the left one in a little shorter time to Tuckett

    Camping site in Sant' Antonio di Mavignola (along the road between Pinzolo and Madonna di Campiglio)
    but if you use a tent near the Brentei hut (a lot of wonderful meadows there) you'll get no problems at all :)

    Routes overview

  • N side - normal route - easy but long and not so fine
  • NW side - from Sentiero SOSAT - easy climb (2° UIAA) - PD
  • NW wall - Meastri-Baldassarri - strong aided route - TD
  • W side - easy but long, tiring and difficult to find
  • SW edge - Agostini - Difficult - maybe the finest route to the summit (650m)
  • S wall to W summit - Steger-Bonacossa-king Albert of Belgium - 550m - D
  • SSW wall to E summit - left dihedral - TD - 700m
  • SSW wall to E summit - Detassis - 550m - TD
  • S wall to E summit - Bonatti - 700m - ED

    and, the most frequented ones that don't arrive to the summits:
  • Detassis chimney along the black chimney left of the Agostini route - ED inf to the ledge
  • Steinkotter - along an overhanging crack left of Detassis chimney - ED inf to the ledge
    Punte di Campiglio