Climbed Cathedral Peak in the morning and had time to jump on this in the afternoon since it's right next to the road. The crux is a real eye opener! I pulled the bulge way too far to the right. My partner Mark Reyes said it was easier to the left. Later the next day, while climbing at the Bunny Slopes, I watched a series of six different parties head up this route. Every one of them bailed before the crux pitch. Yeah!
Weather looked a little iffy for an alpine rock climb (Tenaya peak was slated for that day) so we decided to try something where it would be easy to bail if the weather turned. This seemed better than sitting around camp wondering if the thunderheads would attack or not. At the top of the third pitch the attack came. The water was pouring off the slabs, filling our shoes and chalkbags. The ensuing pea sized hail gathered up to a meter deep at the base of the slabs as it fell and slithered down the rock face. Needless to say we rappeled off, and got a further soaking as our plates effectivly wrung out our ropes in our faces. Those stories about climbers on domes and big walls wondering if they were going to drown in a thunderstorm suddenly didn't seem so silly.
We thought we had it bad until we remebered seeing little tiny climber dots on Cathedral Peak as we were racking up at the car. Bet they had even more fun....
I really enjoyed following this. I thought the walkoff down the backside was way scarier than the climb - I guess because I was following my excellent partner, Rob.
What a great climb and a gorgeous day. Very fun dihedral near the top. Beautiful views and fabulous company.
Typical Tuolumne runout route... Rusty 1/4" bolts protect the crux (as of 1994 or so).
Have also done Zee Tree twice.
Golden bars 11.b
Needle and spoon 10.a
Dike route 5.9 (twice)
Went up this gem of a climb with Lara (her first multi-pitcher). Got a late start of 11.43, topping out at 18.52 (due to it being her first multi-pitch climb, & only my 2nd weekend trad' climbing of the season, it took us an extraordinarily long time!). Nonetheless a great climb- great friction climbing with just the right amount of bolts, + a sweet lieback to finish off the climb. For me, getting to the 1st anchor above the "4th class (yeah, right- I'd call the last 15-20' to it 5.3 or so, with major exposure)" was the crux. The rappel incident was an interesting way to end the day :)
May 30, 2004 - With Etsuko
July 24, 2005 - With Pavel
June 24, 2006 - With Etsuko after getting turned back from Pennyroyal Arches due to difficult creek crossings
A modern classic, no doubt!