Queen Crimson Dome, 5.8-5.11d

Overview/Approach

Desert Queen Mine is one of the least visited, if not the least, of any climbing destination detailed in the local guides.  Miramontes fails to nail down the dates these climbs were established, but any fixed hardware I came across in 2019 needs replaced.  Obviously, this area was developed quite a while ago, but you are likely to never come across anyone at Hidden Valley who would have any idea where it is and/or the routes it features.

This is actually one of the more historical sections of the park, littered with many old mines: deep holes in the ground with steel grated covers.  Established by Frank L. James in the early 1890s, the mine remained active for 70+ years!  Part of that history involved the lore of outlaw cattle rustler Jim McHaney whose gang murdered James and took over the mine.  Ironically he eventually borrowed money against it and lost it to a bank. The Keys Ranch family eventually took over the mine and kept it going as late as 1961.

The climbing on this hill is broken down into four small areas:  Gold Nuggets, the Towers, Queen Crimson Dome and Fraggle (sic) Rock.  The best climbing is found at Queen Crimson Dome.  This is not a singular dome, but rather a collection of small formations clustered together on the south side of the hill above and to the east of the mines.   Most of the routes receive good sun.  An underrated route at Queen Crimson Dome is its name sake, Queen Crimson, 5.10b*.  If this splitter was located roadside in Jtree proper, this route would get a higher recommendation in the local guide.  Queen Crimson is on its own feature to the far-right side of this group of formations.  In the middle of the formations is a relatively broad face that is home to two runout bolted climbs, Software Sluts, 5.10dR, and Manwich Queen, 5.8*.  Both were surprisingly good slab climbs for no more traffic then they receive.   There is only one fixed rap which is atop Hollowed (sic) Ground, 5.11a**, the only pure sport route of this collection.  Otherwise you must scramble/walk off the formations.  Most all pro bolts and hangers need to be replaced as of 2019.

You can access this area by driving the dirt road extension of Bighorn Pass road for 4 miles +/- or head north directly off of Park Blvd east of Sheep Pass.  There is a dirt road heading north off of Park Blvd named Desert Queen Mine road.  It is located directly across from Geology Tour Road.  Follow it to its end which is an official trail-head (offering several hikes) with a backcountry board and restroom.  Follow the trail northeast on the right side of the restroom and turn right at an old homestead.  Follow this old mine trail/road down to the significant wash below, cross it and head up the switch back old mine trail past several mines and cut back right at a small feature (massive boulder) named Power Shopping which has several bolted routes on its north face.  Hike back southeast to circumvent Queen Crimson Dome on its south end and head up the short hill to the base of the climbs.  Maybe 30 minutes total.  There is a large roof on the left end, Nerve Storm, 5.11d**, and a bolted climb on a fin in the foreground, Hollowed Ground, 5.11a**.  Everything else is located between these two with the exception of Queen Crimson, 5.10b*, which is by itself at the east end of the formations.

Routes Listed Left to Right, as you Face the South Walls

Nerve Storm- 70’-5.11d**/

Like My Lump- 65’-5.10a*/ Slab run out finish (single) bolt needs replaced as of 2019.  Currently the route is run out at the crux with consequences (you have traversed out of a corner).  Start up a southeast facing corner on the left side of Crimson Dome.  Climb the varnished crack as it narrows to micro and bleeds out onto the broad face to the left.  Traverse left on slab and ascend through the lone bolt (crux slab) to the top.   Sling a boulder climber’s right for an anchor.   Single rack, micro to C4 #3.  Faces southeast.  Walk off climber’s left.  Dow

Software Sluts- 60’-5.10dR/ Needs to be re-bolted as of 2019.  Worthy of a recommendation that it did not receive in the local guide, one of the better slab climbs at its grade in Jtree in my opinion.  Start up a left to right slanting crack with one run out solid trad piece (the fixed piece mentioned in the guide (2019) is gone). Climb through two run out bolts above via thoughtful slab moves.  Not too dirty which was a surprise for no more traffic than it has seen.  Micro gear and courage.  Small to medium gear anchor at top.  South facing.  Scramble down climber’s right.  Dow

Manwich Queen- 60’-5.8*/ Nice slab arete climb through three bolts that need replacing (2019).  Start at what appears to be a great 5.8 corner crack, but is unpublished as of 2019.  Instead of climbing the corner, climb the arete on the left.  Thoughtful slab moves sustained at the grade.  Shared gear belay with Software.  South facing.  Scramble down climber’s right.  Dow

Desert Profit- 80’-5.11d**/

Hollowed (sic) Ground- 55’-5.11a**/

Queen Crimson- 40’-5.10b*/ One of the better 5.10b trad climbs in the park, despite how short it is.  At the far-right end of the formations is a short tower (in the descent gully for Manwich) with a finger crack to the top.  Beautiful rock.  Climb the finger crack with finger and micro gear to a bulge with a #3 pod.  Pull the bulge with fingers above. Sustained climbing.  Medium gear anchor on top.  Single to C4 #3.  West facing.  Descend climbers left.  Dow