We climbed the north face to within 200 feet of the west ridge crest at which point very bad snow was found and we had to downclimb a bit before we could make solid anchors. I estimate we were 300 feet below the summit.
Great climb in a tight weather window, took longer than anticipated! Was hoping to climb French Direct on Alpamayo the following day, but far to much new snow overnight made for unstable conditions.
Good weather window amidst bad weather in the area. Beautiful wall.
Climbed the NF. Left camp around 7:30am and came back by sunset. Next day climbed french direct on Alpamayo. Awesome outing with a good partner and friend.
Surprisingly long and tiring route. Perhaps it was something to do with climbing the French direct on Alpamayo the previous day. Never too steep or difficult but a long route if pitching it all.
went for Quitarju as Alpamayo (next door) was way too crowded.
Took much more time than we thought to ascend and descend.
Found great bullet proof snow all the way up the North Face. Had the mountain to ourselves. There was no visibility that day, so the summit view was less than memorable.
soloed the north face-would like to come back and try Alpamayo
I went solo up the rock rib just left of the north face and gained the summit ridge which I found a bit scarier than I expected. I was planning to follow the " normal route" down but did know what to expect so I dowwnclimbed the rib while avalanches roared down the north face. At the bottom of the rib I traversed under the face as fast as possible and was very happy to to get out of range of the avalanches on the north face, and enjoy the beautiful views of Alpamayo.
EXCELLENT CLIMB, NOT TOO STEEP. TIRING RETURN TO COL CAMP!