We climbed it as six pitches on a 50m with the Mountain Beast sport-climbing exit: Link P1 and P2 with simuling (or scramble most of P1), combine P3-P5 into two pitches, then one long and one short pitch to the big tree ledge. The walk-off and climb are very scenic, but the climbing itself is inconsistent and often mediocre. Handren gives it 3 stars, but it was not nearly as good as Black Magic and Dark Shadows, two other 3-star 5.8s. The crux sections are the surprisingly steep corner on (the guidebook's) P2, two short parts of P6 and, if you're short, the awkward start of P3. Trip report.
With Jascha. Good call on the ball nuts, Dow.
I am not sure if I can sign the log since Dow lead the way. I felt like a lady who had a gentleman ahead finding out the way - haha. The climb was beautiful, and the whole Oak Creek canyon is very spectacular and peaceful.
Hard to beat the day we had, with Liba. Perfect weather, company and terrain. Oak Creek is prob the most enjoyable full length canyon (your descent) of all of Red Rocks. We did this in 10+ hrs and never climbed together before and took plenty of breaks, this is more of a II-III day vs IV. The rock was quite stellar and pitches 2, 3 and 6 were very good for the grade by Red Rocks standards. I took a slide nut for that thin section on 6 and it fit the bill. Single rack worked great all day. Quite a few trees to sling as well.