This is quickly becoming a North Cascades classic line and it's hard to believe that it had to wait till the mid 80's to see an FA! Perfect rock and great climbing on a cool spire in a beautiful alpine setting are what one should expect here. The approach - though a tad painful (no bushwhacking, just a bit of scree in late season) - is short and straightforward. The route can be pretty easily done car to car and the going might be more fun earlier in the season when there is still snow in the approach gully.
Drive WA state highway 20 (North Cascades Highway) to Washington Pass (directions are easiest to give from there regardless of whether one's coming in from east or west). From Pass, drive 4 miles east on the highway to a wide pullout (there are several before) on the right (south) side of the highway.
Look for a steep and faint trail descending down (scree/boulders) towards Early Winters Creek (~300 feet below highway). Trail becomes more distinct at bottom. Follow the initially flat trail and cross the creek on a log. The trail quickly turns uphill and gains elevation quite efficiently. Next flat section (good camping and a water source) is at about 6600' (~2300' above road). From there, your objective is the obvious Burgundy Col ~1500 feet above. Hike up the trail which quickly peters out. Follow cairns up the loose gullies generally traversing right and up ending up in the main gully just below the Col (few bivy spots; year-round snow for water).
From Col, descend down (steep snow or loose rocks or moats - your pick) for about 200 to 300 feet until able to traverse (right) under the east face of Burgundy spire (year round snow with seasonal rock bands). East face of Chinati quickly comes into view and the start of Rebel Yell is farily obvious - look for a wide crack in a dihedral near the right side of the east face (upper headwall OW cannot be mistakened).
Route DescriptionPitch 1:
5.7, 140 feet. There are probably multiple options but your goal is the same: base of a fist crack 20 feet below the obvious OW in the dihedral. Climb up low angle cracks and dihedrals on the right through some beautiful white granite. Belay on good ledge below obvious fist crack.
5.9, 80 feet. Climb up the short fist crack and enter the wide OW. It's easier than it looks from bottom as face features and thin cracks abound all around. Belay on a small stance (horizontal crack for feet) just above.
5.7, 100 feet. Continue up the lower angle dihedral that is a tad loose. Belay at a slung block on the right about 30 feet below a headwall in the dihedral.
5.8, 70 feet. Climb up good cracks to a short slab section. Step left (frictiony kind of move - blind step across) and traverse further left on good cracks to a sloping ledge directly below a steep thin hand crack (one bolt).
5.10, 100 feet. Climb up the thin hands crack (steep and strenuous; crux?). The crack changes to fingers for a short stretch before opening up to cupped hands (#3 Camalot). Reach a stance below an obvious OW section (bolt). Continue 25 feet up the OW (#3.5 to #4 Camalot) to a small but good stance (bolt).
5.8, 140 feet. Continue up the wider OW now (dihedral and other features keep things 5.8 here) for 40 feet to a ledge. Pull another short but stout OW section and mantle onto another ledge. Follow ramp on left side of summit block to summit "pedestal".
5.7, 20 feet. Climb the slightly chossy summit block (old bolt on top) and let the rebel yells fly.
Rap the route with two ropes. Start with a double bolt anchor (new bolts) at SE base of summit block down to top of P5. Double rope rap to top of P4. Two more double rope raps bring you back to your starting point. Note that it's probably also possible to rap straight down (don't swing back to top of P4).
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