Huge Classic - Great route!
Superb climbing, well protected. Just plain fun.
A great route.
With Garrett. Did the original/direct start and found this to be very hard; tried the crux several times, then aided it, and it felt like 6a (5.10a) *with* pulling on gear. In contrast, the "6a" pitches afterwards felt much, much easier (took me 50 min to lead the first pitch, about 8 minutes to lead the 2nd "crux" pitch).
Also for the direct start, this topo suggested you go straight up to the little pillar just below the crux. I looked at this, and it's doable, and you could take a small traverse left just below the pillar where it looked like you'd get gear. But turns out you can't get gear there; much better to go about 15 feet left, go up, and then traverse right to the pillar.
For the upper route, I made a little topo that shows how we did the upper section. There's a fantastic large crack/dihedral on basically the last pitch.
Climbed with German guy as a warm up for the Gervasutti. Nice route.
2 ropes with Nico and Aure; and Francois, Florence and I got up in this thrilling, superb and demanding climb. Probably the best rock-climb ever !
France's version of Third Pillar, except with beer at the top!
Climbed it on the first day I was in Chamonix. Hard work without proper acclimatisation ;-)