la Glère-Brèche de Néouvielle-Trois Conseillers-Turon

Page Type
Hautes Pyrénées, France, Europe
Route Type:
Spring, Summer, Fall
Time Required:
A long day
Rock Difficulty:
5.0 (YDS)

Route Quality: 1 Votes

2337 Hits
71.06% Score
Log in
to vote
Page By: la Glère-Brèche de Néouvielle-Trois Conseillers-Turon
Created On: Sep 8, 2009
Last Edited On: Jul 3, 2012


It's the shorter and easier route to summit but it's not always evident.

Getting There

See the main page to approach to Refuge de la Glère the previous day.

Route Description

Brèche de Néouvielle and Trois Conseillers
Néouvielle and Trois Conseillers

We begin in Refuge de la Glère (2.150m) following the signals to Refuge Packe and Lacs de Néouvielle until the cross path in the hillside. We turn to left following the direction to Lacs de Néouvielle. We reach the big lake of Mail (2.340m) and we turn to left (S.). The path in right side goes to coume estrete and the normal route to Turon de Néouvielle (3.035m). We follow the cairns among the stones. We cross the small dam and we walk near of the river following more cairns in a labyrinth of blocks of stone. We're under Néouvielle but we leave the ascent to Brèche de Chausenque in left side. We walk bordering completely the peak Néouvielle in the area with stones and the poor glacier of Maniportet over the small lakes of Maniportet (2.747m) turning to left in direction (SE) to the col between Néouvielle and Trois Conseillers called Brèche de Néouvielle (2.928m). The ascent to the col is hard with scree and stones very pronounced but you don't need really to make a rock-climb, it's a hard walk-up. In the breche you turn to right to climb the good rock of ridge always in the right side of the edge with small terraces and little chimneys (F) reaching the summit.

Following to Turon de Néouvielle (3.035m): the mountaineers can follow the ridge from the summit with very attention to the cairns indicating the descent to left side. The ridge is sharp and hard (only for expert rock-climbers) and the better option is walk at North face of the ridge following some narrow terraces with a lot of stones and grassy paths. It's not hard (F+ with rock-climbs of I+) but it's dangerous and you must be careful with the great fall. The last section has a better rock to climb exiting to a col between both summits. You descent a little bit to the right side reaching the wide ramp walking to the summit of Turon de Néouvielle (3.035m). For the descent it's very advisable the use of the normal route of Turon across coume estrète.

Essential Gear

In May-June it's necessary the use of crampons and ice-axe. In July in a sunny day only early in the morning the snow is hard, but the slope is soft and you can walk around the very small glacier of Maniportet.

External Links

Add External Links text here.