Approach to Weeping Wall
Take the climber's trail from Fern Valley Rd. parking area all the way up. The trail will end very close to the right end of the Buttress Of Cracks and The Plague (5.8
). Move up and right passing a large tree with two liters. The Weeping Wall will be obvious and directly above this point.
Move up ledges to a short right facing corner that marks the start of 3 routes Surprise
, Duck Soup
, and moving Right at the top of the rib, Revelation
A medium nut protects the start of the route on the corner (.7), climb up runout face to a bolt (.8+), then up to share the 3rd bolt on Serpentine
. Continue up to a bolted belay straight up (.9)
Follow up slightly right following the bolted line above (.9) There will be a short stumpy bulge above the belay with bolts somewhat hidden above. Thin face climbing on great edges moves you to the last bolt, then a slabby section (10a) to the bolted belay.
Up a slick dish-like system straight above the belay to bolts (10a), then run it out for over 40ft to the top of the Weeping Wall (5.7)
- 10 Quickdraws
- Anchor Setup
- Personal Anchor System
- 60m Rope
In 1970, Ivan (Bud) Couch and Mike Dent stormed the Weeping Wall and climbed this ultra-classic route (IMO). Couch and Dent were the driving forces in the FA of the areas most storied and coveted climb, Valhalla. Revelation was put up in August, and Valhalla later that year in November.
From the top move up and left to a 2 bolt chain to rap 80ft to a notch. Downclimb easy 3rd to Paisano Ledge, There will be another 2 bolt chain to rap another 80ft in a notch. Downclimb 4th class terrain to bottom.
This route is mainly a sport climb, with only 1 gear placement right off the deck. The remainder of the route is bolted. But, this is not as well protected as one might think a 'sport climb' should be. This is Suicide Rock, and many (almost all) of the routes were done here in good style, ground up. Thus, many bolted routes here can be 'runout'. When you arrive at a bolt, try to imagine yourself having to stand there and place it, and you will have a good idea on why they are spaced in the fashion they are.