Right Couloir

Page Type
Route
Location:
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
Ice climbing
Time Required:
Half a day
Difficulty:
Class 5

Route Quality: 3 Votes

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Right Couloir
Created On: Sep 30, 2002
Last Edited On: Sep 30, 2002

Approach


From your camp in the South Fork of McGee Creek drainage ( see Checkered Demon mountain approach page ), walk up the moraine to the obvious North Face. The right couloir is to the right of a wild looking buttress, with the easier descent gully to its left.

Route Description


Climb the obvious 800' ice gully. The gully steepens considerably near the top ( 60 degrees ). Either side of the couloir can be followed and rock anchors are possible in the side of couloir. Be careful of extremely loose rock at the top of the couloir.
Descend the lower angle gully to the east.

Essential Gear


Ice climbing equipment including ice tools, crampons, helmets, rope, ice screws and a light rock rack. Due to the sometimes rotten nature of the rock, a couple of pitons may be advisable.

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

Viewing: 1-1 of 1

awagher

awagher - Sep 19, 2005 4:01 pm - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

We took a look at this route on September 18th, 2005. The route was 75% + melted out and the part that was not was littered with rockfall. To get on this route you must be willing to climb a bergshrund like this

Viewing: 1-1 of 1









Right Couloir

Route
1 Images 1 Climber's Log Entries 1 Comments 1 Additions & Corrections

Geography

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Parents

Checkered DemonRoutes