This can be really great climb when fully iced up. One could say, the Checkered Demon Couloir must be one of the best alpine ice climbs in the whole of the High Sierra.
The schround is complex and steep (vertical) but short (40-60 feet). The lower half is your typical Sierra ice couloir.
The interesting part is the tail, the upper section where the couloir splits and narrows. The right hand section has a bit more ice mixed with rock (loose when not held together by ice) so it might be a better exit. The tail is steep, narrow (2-3 feet) and mixed ice and rock. Good climbing here.
The descent can be easily done via down climbing the Kindergarten Couloir or hiking down the sandy slopes on the far left side (looking up) of the formation back to your car.
The couloir felt longer (1,200'?) than the (listed here) 800 feet. If you solo it, RT about 5-6 hours CTC, roped up, a long day.
BTW the great looking buttress that separates the Kindergarten and Checkered Demon Couloirs has some very bad rock on it. That might be one huge reason why there are no routes on it.
asmrz - Sep 28, 2013 1:10 pm - Voted 10/10
One of the best Sierra couloirs, when is shapeThis can be really great climb when fully iced up. One could say, the Checkered Demon Couloir must be one of the best alpine ice climbs in the whole of the High Sierra.
The schround is complex and steep (vertical) but short (40-60 feet). The lower half is your typical Sierra ice couloir.
The interesting part is the tail, the upper section where the couloir splits and narrows. The right hand section has a bit more ice mixed with rock (loose when not held together by ice) so it might be a better exit. The tail is steep, narrow (2-3 feet) and mixed ice and rock. Good climbing here.
The descent can be easily done via down climbing the Kindergarten Couloir or hiking down the sandy slopes on the far left side (looking up) of the formation back to your car.
The couloir felt longer (1,200'?) than the (listed here) 800 feet. If you solo it, RT about 5-6 hours CTC, roped up, a long day.
BTW the great looking buttress that separates the Kindergarten and Checkered Demon Couloirs has some very bad rock on it. That might be one huge reason why there are no routes on it.