Rime Ice & Heavy Wind

Page Type
Trip Report
Oregon, United States, North America
Date Climbed/Hiked:
Jun 14, 2004
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Created On: Jun 15, 2004
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We climbed the Southside/Hogsback route on June 14th. According to the ranger there were no sucessful summits for several days due to severe weather. We left Timberline Lodge at 1AM under cloudy skies with high winds(30 +mph). The entire upper portion of the mountain was covered in rime ice (every step was fresh tracks). We tried to climb to the right of the Bergshund and found it impassable due to numerous cracks and holes. We tried the far left of the Bergshund and eventually settled on going to the immediate left of the Bergshund and traversed (on front points) to the Hogsback. We summitted at 11AM. There was heavy ice fall at the Pearly Gates. Due to the conditions, it took 10 hours to climb to the summit and 4 to descend. All five members of our group reached the summit.


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