Climbed it solo in 1 day up & down from Täsch Alp in the valley by the WSW-ridge. Also did 3 sub summits on the SW-side. #nonstopsolo
During two weeks in middle of October 2017 an extreme good weather period blessed the Alps. I’ve never experienced such great weather in the Swiss Alps for the last 20 years. For at least four days in a row there was not a single cloud in the sky and the view was magical. Due to the late time of the year not only the Hotel Flue was closed but also the chairlift up to Blauherd was not operating. The hike from Zermatt to Pfulwe was as beautiful as a postcard, passing the Stellisee with the classic Matterhorn view. Near by the Längfluejoch I put up my tent and left for the summit the following day at around 05:30. The steep couloir at the base of the mountain was very icy and my two iceaxes came into action. But after I passed this part I had a more or less a straight forward climb all the way to the summit. There were plenty of stands to anchor and I reached the summit at around 10:00. The summit view was super nice. It took a while to descend since I only had a 30 meter rope and rappelling took time. During the descent I met a party of four who came from Täschalp. The downside with climbs in late autumn is the lack of light and the short days. After clearing camp I made my way down towards Täschalp and further on in darkness to the end of the valley to the little village of Täsch. A long day.
As we were the first ones after a few days of snow we had to make the tracks. But being almost alone out there on this beautifull mountain was perfect.
A gorgeous day on a gorgeous mountain. And we were almost alone...
Nice climb one year after Broad Peak.
Beautiful september weather convinced us to try another mountain in Switserland. We chose Rimfischhorn from Flue. Great hutt with delicious food, best ever eaten at a mountain hutt!. The climb was beautiful but long.
Started at 3AM from the excellent Fluealp hut (highly recommended for its excellent food and great lodging). After 2 hours of hiking to Pfulwe over well-marked paths and large boulders, we began the VERY LONG glacier climb to the final couloir. Very windy at the upper glacier reaches, but after 6 hours' total climb, we made it to the summit. Spectacular views in all directions. Another 5 hours descent to Fluealp awaited us. This peak is a great endurance practice climb for the Matterhorn or other loftier peaks.
Great climb, after a week with a lot of snow. Good rock
here again after many years.
Ski route form Taschhutte, nice climbing to the top
Nice and moderate solo climb from the Fluhalp hut (Zermatt). Ice and hard névé in the upper gullies, so had to stay on the ridge. A little bit more difficult (III-) than the usual crux (exposed slab, II), but solid rock.
Same way back to the Fluhalp hut for cake & coffee and down to Zermatt.
Our initial idea was to climb the North Ridge. However, when we arrived at the Allalinpas, the weather looked very unstable and we opted for the safer standard route instead, which allows easier retreat in case of bad weather. You don't allways get what you want in the mountains and sometimes you have to be happy with a smaller price...
From the Rimpfischsattel, we stayed too long in the snow couloir, eventually leading to a col below the foresummit. After an easy traverse into the East Face and about 60m rather delicat climbing on vertical but loose rock we made it to the summit. Loooooooong way back to the camp site in Saas Grund.
Exhausting, long route. Quite a lot of snow. Amazed by the sunrise. Extremely agressive sun - felt a bit sick during the descent due to dehydration. Didn't go over the foresummit but traversed further in the wall and then steeply up to the summit. Great Stralhorn views. Annoyed by the slush during the descent. Fantastic bivouacplatz aprox. 20min from Taschhut. Met only two climbers in the early morning going to Alphubel then nobody was there!! 5 sunny days in a row without a single rain.
Normal route from Tasch.
Approached via the Fluealp and bivouaced nearby the Pfulwe pass. The climb was a 17-hour epic which started by taking a wrong and pretty dangerous line up and abseiling down using precarious anchors, then climbing up again through the correct line, and finally descending the whole way back to the Pfulwe pass by constantly missing the right exits one has to take on the way. With all these detours I reached the bivouac site at about 10 p.m., and as if that was not enough, I got a shower of wet hail just at the moment when I was taking off my boots and was ready to crawl into my bivvy bag. And there's no way to close the bag quickly...
Great day though!
I was 19 when I climbed Rimpfischhorn. It was snowy and foggy and I suffered from altitude sickness on the way back. My friend forgot his piolet when he abseiled down the wall below the presummit. I offered to climb back up to get it. It was hell: steep, icy cliffs, a snowstorm, and sickness.
I had suffered a sprained ankle a few days earlier on the Zinalrothorn, but my foot held up ok. We had beautiful weather and lots of fresh snow (no tracks). The correct route is easy to see from the saddle-point, but we lost track later on and ascended too far straight up... got back on the route through a dicey traverse on steep ground without good holds.
I climbed with my twin brother. We didn't meet or see anyone else on the mountain.
Great tour to Rimpfischhorn 4199m.
my picture are here: Link to Rimpfischhorn 4199m
Lots of fresh snow. Good weather on the way up. On the summit thunder started and snow came down for the next 12 hours. No other people on the mountain.
Partner: John Scoles
Climb it by the normal route from out a bivouac under Spitziflu, on the track from Flualp.
Very long ascent but final route is 100% worth it. Climbing it is a real fun! Climbed with Jck (Jacek) and Lukasz.
2 guides with 7 problematic clients on one rope.