Very long ascent but final route is 100% worth it. Climbing it is a real fun! Climbed with Jck (Jacek) and Lukasz.
2 guides with 7 problematic clients on one rope.
Very long route.
After spending three days in tents over the Tahschhutte waiting for good weather I climbed this route with Radek ( brade ) and Lukasz. Interesting and enjoyable climb in quite good snow conditions.
Before descending I climbed also the the West Summit (P 4009).
1750 meters of climbing from Täsch-Hütte including the re-elevation between the two glaciers together with Sebastian.
Very long ski-mountaineering tour, but definitely worth it. Great views and panorama. Täsch-Hütte is nicer than Britannia-Hütte even you have to carry your ski some distance if you go that late in the year.
Nice climb with Niklas. Perfect snow conditions.
Great climb, my first of the saison. Good condition, upper part a little bit icy. We were alone on the summit, great view! One of my favourits mountains
On skis from Britannia hut via Allalinpass and Rimpfischsattel where we had to leave the skis. I was glad there was some fog creeping up the eat face. See here why ;) Skied down to Taesch.
Climbed with Paul. Very cold..
Finally got to the top of this thing after three failed attempts due to bad weather and a partner's broken crampon.
Hard to believe so many people blindly following the main coulier way too far, leading to ground that is (from what I heard from some of them) quite harder than PD... a good lesson to rely on your own judgement instead of following a trail blindly as so many people shockingly do here in the Alps.
Interesting climbing, even on the correct route. Had to solo the hard bits due to partners bailing out.
Excellent weather, but the approach from Flu is just as much a killer as from Brittania... I was completely exhausted after this one, but well worth it.
What a beautiful route!! Tuomas and I started from the Britannia Hut at around half past four in the morning and stood on the top at 10 o'clock.
The glacier and the snow slope to the Grand Gendarme were in bad condition. The night had been warm so there was only a 2 cm icy coating on the wet snow. That does not hold ones weight so we cut deep steps all the way to the beginning of the rocky section.
We lost some time trying to get around the 40-50 meter tall gendarme before noticing that on the very top there were bolts for rappeling. The first rappel is a short one and of the second bolt at 1/3 from the top you can easily reach the foot of the gendarme with a 50 meter rope (doubled for rappeling).
From that point the route was easy to follow and the quality of the rock is far better than on most rock ridges of the area. Every now and then the ridge gets very narrow so don't forget to belay your partner occasionally by wrapping the rope around the rock spikes which there are plenty. We did have a set of nuts with us but did not eventually use any. In whole the ridge is very varied and allows You to use multiple techniques.
From the summit we took the normal route down to the foot of the summit pyramid and returned to the Britannia Hut through very hazardous glacier.
A good preparation for my Mont Blanc climb
Looooooong and cold apprach from the hut. Beautiful sunrise, though. Mistakenly followed the main coulier too far, following a massive piste of other tracks. Ends in a vertical wall and appearently none of those 100 tracks actually made the summit! Teaches us to follow blindly...
Anyway, after some thought, as well as watching two other groups follow the piste of tracks to us and turn around, (!) we did a scetchy traverse right to the correct coulier, where there was a much smaller trail and an obviously line the remaining 50m to the summit. Disaster strikes: my partner's crampon breaks in half! Bail, bail! I have to carefully belay him down every bit back to the skis. Next time...
A long and interesting day out from the Brittannia hut with the Speyside folks. Cold and windy with some ice on the rocks. The summit block is a very fine location with amazing views. We joined ropes with an Italian pair to facilitate a quicker abseil descent into the little snow couloir.
After three day or raining and storm, finally during the night the wind cleaned up the sky. We (Valerio and Daniele) left the Britanniahutte at 3:45. Nice walking on the glacer, no problem, windy but fine. We reach the Allalinpass in 1:40min, than pass the rocky ridge descending fromn the great gendarm it took a bit. No problem on the slope till the rimpfischsattle. Than we started to climb the coluoir that was extremily icy. All the rocky part was quite dengerous and icy.
A long and hard climbing. Quite difficoult if the rocky ridge is covered by verglass. Better have two 50meters roops for the discent. There are several ring, about every 40m to help the descending
Dangerous glacier... Luca dissapeared in a crevasse!!!! Luckely we got him out in a minute. A bit shaken we climbed the normal route... Don't take the wrong turn on the mountain... or you will end up in VI terrain?!? Briljant surrouding and nice climb...
It was a beautiful but very long day crossing first the Alphubel glacier and then the Mellich glacier. We stayed 1 hour without any wind on the summit. I remember that I was totally exhausted after the 100 m final ascent on the return route back to the Alphubel glacier
Beautiful weather all day, long hike in but was worth it for view from the top!!
Together with Martin (see next entry) and two other friends. In contrast to them (they used snoe shoes) I had skis with me. My descent back to the hut was much faster and great fun.
A very long approch, we have to hike a lot. The weather turns cloudy at the Rimpfischsattel, so we do not see anything. At the final rock ridge there was crowds, so we stopped one or two pitches before the summit.
Never again on a sunday !
Climbed from the Fluh Hut to the summit with fantastic views and perfect weather. The climb took much longer than expected and my partner Matt Bialowas lost his wallet somewhere near the summit. We also were a bit misdirected early in the climb and mistakenly followed some other climbers towards the Strahlhorn.