|This incredible route was opened by the viosioner of Central Alps Tarcisio "Tarci" Fazzini along with the cousin Ottavio and Tita Gianola, on August 16th and 19th 1985.
It starts right at the base of the NW face just under the summit, and it directly follows a long series of cracks and slabs, finally reaching the immense dihedral that takes near the summit. This is an almost 200m dihedral that "Tarci" baptized as "The Magnificent" and ever since it's been known with that name by everyone.
Tarcisio is no longer on this world, but this is probably the most beautiful route he left us in the area of Val Masino / Bergell.
Start from the Sasc Fura Hut (see main page for description) and take the trail towards Trubinasca pass that, descending in the first part and then ascending, takes you under the NW face. At this point leave the trail and head up until reaching the glacier on its left border (looking the face). Walk on the glacier (light crampons mandatory) from left to right until you reach the attack of the route.
The glacier has quite huge crevasses that you carefully have to avoid.
Sometimes this is even impossible and the route cannot be climbed.
L1: climb up straight on the first easy slopes (IV+, 40m)
L2: towards right, climb a little overhang and traverse on slabs towards right reaching an easy ledge (V+, 50m)
L3: follow an oblique crack towards left (V, 50m)
L4: continue on a slab until an easier part (V, 50m)
L5: climb up on easy ledges (IV+, 40m)
L6: follow a thin crack taking slightly towards right (VI-, 50m)
(we called this the "hidden crack")
L7: continue on the crack until its end (V+, 50m)
L8: an easy length on ledges takes below the upper slabs (IV, 50m)
L9,L10,L11,L12,L13: climb the upper slabs by choosing the preffered line (possible alternatives) trying to keep an eye to the "Magnificent", the big dihedral. (V and VI, 250m)
L14: easy length entering the dihedral (IV+, 35m)
L15: key length of the dihedral (VI, 40m)
L16: still in the dihedral, until reaching a roof to be avoided on its left (VI-, 40m)
L17: still in the dihedral until exiting on the north ridge at 10 minutes from the summit (V+, 40m)
Only few pitons on the route but cams and nuts can be placed quite easily (slabs excluded). Belays very often have to be re-enforced or completely equipped
two ropes, complete set of cams (some mid and big measures to be doubled), complete set of nuts, 10 extenders, hammer and 8 or 9 pitons, crampons, and at least a ice-tool per party.
Best option is to descend to Italy and go to the Giannetti Hut. Another option is to spend the night at the small hut on the summit and descend the day after rappelling the north ridge.
A complete report with pictures and movies can be found here on Climberland