Robert Meshew approaches the...

Robert Meshew approaches the ice ramp of the Northeast Face. On this day in mid-July, we belayed most of the ramp, only simul-climbing for a time in the middle section when sun-softened snow prevented building an adequate belay. Our best belays were found in crevassed areas, where overhanging lips of ice protected against icefall, and good ice screw protection could be found in a crevasse wall.

Many parties hug the left side, placing rock gear when possible. We reached the left-side rocks near the end of the ramp, but a moat prevented making strong use of it.