Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 45.47130°N / 7.08828°E
Activities Activities: Mountaineering
Additional Information Elevation: 10591 ft / 3228 m
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

Mountain in the shape of pitch fork with two summits: NW (3.220m) and SE (3.228m), place between Fond (West) and Basagne (East) Pass. Topographic mountain point in French side for long SW Crest and first summit after Galisia Point (3.346m) to Tsanteleina Point (3.601m). Excellent views over Rhêmes Valley and the glaciers.
Montagna a forma di forcone con due sommità: NW (3.220 m) e SE (3.228 m) posta tra i Colli del Fond (W) e Basagne (E).Importante nodo topografico sul lato francese per la sua lunga cresta SW e prima cima nella Catena dopo la Punta Galisia (3.346 m) verso la Tsanteleina (3.601 m). Buon panorama sulla Valle di Rhêmes e i suoi ghiacciai.

First Ascents

  • First on the summit: Puisseux Brothers and Maginot, (Aug 21th, 1876).
  • In winter: Unknown.
  • E Face: Ernesto, Lorenzo and Luigi di Montelera and mountain guides Beniamino Henry and N. Oreiller, (1962).
  • W Slope: Puisseux Brothers and Maginot, (Aug 21th, 1876).
  • N-NE Face (direct route): Osvaldo Cardellina, solo, (Sep 12th, 1998).

Getting There

  • From France, through the Mont Blanc Tunnel or the Col du Petit Saint Bernard: you can drive on SS.26, following directions for Aosta and, before arriving in Villeneuve, turn right towards Introd. Alternatively, you can take Motorway A5 (at Courmayeur or Morgex) and exit at Aosta Ovest.
  • From all the other directions: get to the Aosta Ovest exit of Motorway A5. Then drive on SS.26 Aosta, in the direction of Courmayeur; just after Villeneuve turn left towards Introd.
BY PLANE:
  • Aeroporto "Corrado Gex" Saint Christophe (Aosta).
Enter the valley and, at the fork between Valsavarenche and Val di Rhêmes turn to the right (Rhêmes). Cross all the villages to arrive to Rhêmes Notre Dame and follow to Thumel (car parking), herefrom, following the dirt road on the right side (ascending) of the valley, or, better with snow, a track on the left that passing throught some fine woods leads you to the Rifugio Benevolo (2.285m).

Route

From Gian Federico Benevolo Refuge (2.285m) by path 13c and Southwest direction to small bridge (2.269m); to reach along Doire stream, West side, (Truc Saint Hélène Tour) to quota 2.465m. By traces to sources Doires stream's of Rhêmes and, through moraine route, to reach the Fond Lake (2.625m), the Central Fond Glacier and the Fond Pass (3.081m). From pass by "clapeys" and snow fields (30°/35°) to go up 150 meters to NW Point (3.220m); through easy rocks (yellow fine stone) to cross easily to South Point (3.228m) 3h'00/3h'30.
 
Dal Rifugio Gian Federico Benevolo (2.285 m) con il sentiero 13c verso SW al piccolo ponte (2.269 m) e seguendo a Ovest la Dora di Rhêmes (Tour del Truc Saint Hélène) verso quota 2.465 m, ove termina tramutandosi in traccia esile. Con questa verso le sorgenti della Dora di Rhêmes e, con percorso su morena, raggiungere il Lago di Fond (2.625 m), il Ghiacciaio Centrale di Fond e l'omonimo Colle (3.081 m) Dal Colle tramite "clapeys" e pendii nevosi (30°/35°) risalire per circa 150 metri verso la Punta NW (3.220 m); per facili rocce di calcare giallo traversare facilmente alla Punta Sud (3.228 m) 3h'00/3h'30.

Difficulty

This route can be considered EE/A, F.
 
L'itinerario è classificato EE/A, F.

Equipment

Standard mountaineering equipment. Rope, ice axe and crampons.
 
Corda, Picozza e ramponi.

Huts

 
Roc de Basagne

Rifugio Gian Federico Benevolo

 

Red Tape

The Eastern side of the valley belongs to Gran Paradiso National park, the Western one is out of the boundaries of the Park ... but nature must be respected.

Campings

Remember that free camping is forbidden (except for emergency reasons, over 2.500m, from darkness until dawn).

Mountain Conditions

  • You can get meteo information at the official site of the Regione Valle d'Aosta:
  • Valle d'Aosta Meteo

Webcam

  • WEBCAM on Aosta Valley:
  • Webcam

Books and Maps

BOOKS:
  • "Guida delle Alpi Occidentali" di Giovanni Bobba e Luigi Vaccarone C.A.I. Sezione di Torino Volume II (parte II), 25 Maggio 1896.
  • "Guida dei Monti d'Italia-Alpi Graie Centrali" di Alessandro Giorgetta 1985.
  • "Guida della Regione Autonoma Valle d'Aosta" di Mario Aldrovandi, Ed. S.P.E. di Carlo Fanton, Torino 31 Dicembre 1964.
  • "Rifugi e bivacchi in Valle d'Aosta", di Cosimo Zappelli aggiornata da Pietro Giglio, Musumeci Editore, Luglio 2002.
  • "Diari Alpinistici" di Osvaldo Cardellina e Indice Generale accompagnato da Schedario Relazioni Ascensioni 1964-2019 (inediti).
MAPS:
  • Kompass "Gran Paradiso Valle d'Aosta Sentieri e Rifugi" Carta Turistica 1:50.000.
  • Enrico Editore Ivrea-Aosta "Gruppo del Gran Paradiso" 1:50.000.
  • I.G.C. Istituto Geografico Centrale Carta dei sentieri e dei rifugi "Valsavarenche-Val di Rhêmes-Valgrisenche" 1:25.000.

Important Information

Roc de Basagne
Roc de Basagne
Roc de Basagne
Roc de Basagne
Roc de Basagne

Useful numbers

  • Protezione Civile Valdostana località Aeroporto 7/A Saint Christophe (Ao) Tel. 0165-238222.
  • Bollettino Meteo (weather info) Tel. 0165-44113.
  • Unità Operativa di Soccorso Sanitario Tel. 118.

Acknowledgements

I am greatly indebted to my friend "Osva" for the detailed description of the route.


Parents 

Parents

Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.

Gran Paradiso GROUPMountains & Rocks
 
Graie AlpsMountains & Rocks
 
Gran ParadisoMountains & Rocks