Roche de la Muzelle

Overview

Roche de la Muzelle is the most western peak of Les Ecrins.
Despite its beautiful shape, La Muzelle is less climbed than other summits in Les Ecrins.
An ideal destination if you want to climb and not be bothered by crowd !

This mountain is actually made of 3 close summits : S-W (3465m), Central (3450m) and N-E (3418m).

Getting There and Staying...

When driving from Bourg d'Oisans, right after Venosc, you park at Bourg d'Arud (935m).
From there, there is a very nice walk up to the Muzelle Hut (2115m) by the Muzelle Lake.
The area is very peaceful. You can either stay at the Hut or camp right beside.

Muzelle Hut : +33 4 76 79 02 01

Route Description

On the West side of the mountain (from Muzelle Hut) there are two main routes to climb.
On the East side you can find a few paths but not as nice as the two mentioned below.

1. NORMAL ROUTE (N-E Ridge)

Rock-Snow PD / II / 1330m (1120m to the Col and then 210m to the Summit)
- From Muzelle Hut, take the track starting at the back of the hut and going up on the eastearn direction. Well marked.
- When you reach the Muzelle Glacier, you first walk across then go on a steeper slope to reach the main saddle.
- Go through the glacier saddle until you see the Col Jean Martin on your left.
- Start walking up towards it. Very steep snow slope, about 40-45°.
- At Col Jean Martin, you will traverse on your right (a few pitons are to protect) for about 50m.
Then you will be at the bottom of a mixte couloir (about 40°)
- Climb this rather easy couloir (however poor rock quality and thin layer of snow), up until you reach the North East Ridge.
- Step up on the ridge and follow it to the top of S-W summit of Roche de la Muzelle.

2. COULOIR CENTRAL (N-W Face)

Rock-Ice D / III / 550m climb
- From the Hut go around the Muzelle Lake on its South shore, then walk up to the noticeable pillar with a round base (at 2810m).
- Climb the pillar (level 3b) until you reach a snow couloir
- Climb this couloir : first 100m at 50° > then 200m at 55°
- You then face a 50m high Serac (70°)
- Once you're done with the Serac walk across to the Glacier going progressively on your left.
There you will see a diagonal couloir.
- Climb this mixte couloir (45°/100m) to reach the summit ridge.
Then, on your right, you walk about 100m on the ridge to reach the main summit.

Technical and versatile route !

Essential Gear

For route 1 :

1x 50m rope
Helmet + Harness
Ice-axe + Crampons
A few slings and quickdraws
Friends might be useful

For route 2 :

2x 50m ropes
Helmet + Harness
Ice-axe + Crampons
Ice-screws
Some slings and quickdraws
Friends can be useful

Books & Maps

For route 1 :
Massif des Ecrins, les 100 plus belles by the Gaston Rébuffat

For route 2 :
Ecrins, ascensions choisies AD à D

And the usual map :
Muzelle/Olan 3336ET (West part of Les Ecrins)

Images

View Roche de la Muzelle Image Gallery - 40 Images