Roger's Corner is a great route for those who have spent enough time around the main part of the great northern slab, but want to climb harder than 5.8. Although it is technically part of the great northern slab, it is located on the far right side of it and feels like it's own place. This is also a great route for those who lead 5.9 to get a taste of index 5.9!
Walk to the great northern slab and follow the trail to the right side of the area. Roger's Corner climbs the corner (who would have guessed) that separates the great northern slab from the left section of the main lower walls. Once to the right side of the great northern slab, scramble up to the base of the corner which starts with an easy lieback move up a wide crack.
Route DescriptionPitch 1
- Belay on the ledge anywhere around the wide crack. Traverse easy cracks up and slightly to the right (just right of a bolt ladder) until you can lieback the wide crack up to easy blocky terrain (5.7). Above the blocky corner take a low angled wide crack up to belay chains on easy 5th class terrain. either belay here or clip the chains and climb on.
Pitch 2 - Above the chains, climb a short crack into a leftward trending corner until the corner starts to overhang (5.7). When the corner steepens and overhangs, stem up until you are able to grab the large flake, make a committing move onto the flake and climb it until you can move left to keep following the corner to the chains where a large tree sits on a big ledge (5.9). These chains at the top of pitch 2 are also the start of breakfast of champions, a pumpy, 5.10a overhung hand-crack which heads up the wall right next to the tree.
Gear to 3"
The initial corner takes a #4 Camelot, but is short so bring it if you think you'll need to. Also, the big flake protects well from below it, but a #4 also fits well behind it.
Bring two ropes if you want to make it to the bottom in one rap. Note that both pitches described above can be done as one pitch with a 60 meter rope.