Finally led this "classic." Didn't remember how bad the middle section was. Nothing more than an approach pitch for Breakfast of Champions and Marginal Karma really.
Pretty simple on the first part but more challenging the last 15 feet. I followed as I am still relatively new to this stuff and an Index 9 is much harder than 9's in Colorado.
Only did the first pitch but it was still pretty fun!
One of my first Index routes. The top portion can be a bit spooky, but there's always a jug when you start to get nervous, it just might not be obvious. If you're feeling really froggy, Breakfast of Champions is the awesome, slightly overhung 5.10a hand crack going up from the 2nd set of chains. You can reach the second chains in one pitch from the ground but you have to be diligent about runnering the upper portion. With a 70m rope, you can rap or TR from the top of Roger's.
First Trad lead at 5.9. Right 5.9. I think we both felt like this was more 10a. Anyway. Its too bad the ramp is in the mid section. This would be a really cool full on route. Good none the less.