Rooster Rock

Brian Jenkins and Natasha rapping the south side of Rooster Rock (April 11, 2004).

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Brian Jenkins

Brian Jenkins - Apr 12, 2004 1:32 pm - Voted 10/10

Cool, thanks!

WE'RE FAMOUS!

rpc

rpc - Apr 12, 2004 1:45 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Cool, thanks!

Brian,



I got more shots of you guys (some similar to this one + couple others) - I can either email them to you (pretty large files, c. 1MB?) or give them to you on cd sometime. Let me know.

Brian Jenkins

Brian Jenkins - Apr 12, 2004 2:16 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: Cool, thanks!

Thanks! Try emailing those to me at home (jenkins824@comcast.net) as I should not have a problem opening those up there.



Glad you didn't get a shot of me relieving myself off the other side of the summit a couple seconds after you took this shot! :- )



Was a fun climb. Good to see you guys again.

cluck

cluck - Apr 12, 2004 3:12 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Cool, thanks!

RPC and Brian,



You guys really feel like this was 5.4? Not that 5.4 is hard or anything and maybe it is because I have climbed this thing 4 times including one time in the dark, but the holds are all so giant and blocky that I just can't seem to convince myself that this is 5.4... Sure a fall wouldn't be nice and it is exposed by beyond 4th class comfort, but even for the hardest move... it just feels low 5th to me... like 5.nothing.



Interested in your POV.



Cluck



rpc

rpc - Apr 12, 2004 3:49 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Cool, thanks!

I think one of the older OR rock books calls this 4th class......and it's probably roughly correct (IMHO). The 5.4 rating comes from the newer book (Portland Area Rock Climbs or something?). I think that the scramble over the west side of Asterisk pass at Smith for example (class 4) is harder than anything on south face of Rooster.

...it's still a pretty fun little local climb or scramble or whatever people call it.

Brian Jenkins

Brian Jenkins - Apr 12, 2004 4:56 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: Cool, thanks!

Oh, I see how it is. You want to just discount my lead now. That's just swell. Thanks, man. Thanks a lot.



:- )



I would say the first "pitch" was Class 3. We walked up it carrying ropes in our arms. I think the second pitch was fifth class, but yeah, pretty easy. Nice big ledges to stand on to place pro. There's a beginners trad lead I did at Broughton similar to it that is like 5.0 to 5.3 and this was a bit more exposed and "vertical" than that one so 5.4 may not be off by much. But anything under 5.6 I would say is just 5.easy. It's hard to distinguish what is what between a 5 inch ledge and a 6 inch ledge, ya know? This one could be anywhere between 5.2 and 5.5 to me, I stink at figuring out what something should be rated.



I'm still going to tell everyone that it was 10b though.

:- )

rpc

rpc - Apr 12, 2004 7:00 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Cool, thanks!

Hey of course not.



It's one of those things that is best classified by the 3 level grade system you once mentioned Brian: 5.easy (south face of rooster), 5.fun, and 5.scary.



:)

Brian Jenkins

Brian Jenkins - Apr 12, 2004 7:19 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: Cool, thanks!

I think it was more like:



5.easy

5.hard

5.sick



Rooster was definitely fun and easy.

cluck

cluck - Apr 13, 2004 7:45 pm - Hasn't voted

Route rating

Not trying to split hairs on the rating either. I'm just not an experienced trad leader and the little I have done in the 5.4 range seems much harder than this. Specifically the size of the holds, the nature of the moves, etc.



I'm only about a 5.9 climber following and I would probably feel comfortable soloing this and there aren't too many other pitches of 5.4 I've done (even in the gym) that I would consider climbing without a rope.



Maybe calling the route 5.4 is OK because a 4th class rating might end up with too many newbies trying to free-solo and an accidental fall un-roped would be bad news.



For my personal records, I've been calling this 5.2 and I'm going to stick with that.

Brian Jenkins

Brian Jenkins - Aug 17, 2004 3:37 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: Cool, thanks!

Did you ever get a chance to try to email these pics, Radek? Was just wondering.

rpc

rpc - Aug 17, 2004 4:23 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Cool, thanks!

Brian,

sorry man!! totally forgot about this. I'll try to bring in the cd tomorrow and shoot them over.

Brian Jenkins

Brian Jenkins - Aug 17, 2004 7:58 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: Cool, thanks!

Cool man. I had forgotten about it too but happened to come across this pic again today. Thanks! So what are you guys climbing this weekend? I'm still waiting to see the trip report from a weekend drive down to bag Guadalupe Peak from you guys. ;- )

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