On the route.
Somewhere, we saw this route described as “A cool climb for a hot day.” With a reasonably early start, nearly the entire climb will be in the shade on most days. It is also a “cool climb” in the other sense of the word.
The rock is limestone.
The route is about 10 pitches of 2 to 4b (UIAA II to IV+, YDS 4 to 5.7) up shallow chimneys and relatively smooth slabs with an easy scramble to the summit once off the wall.
It has just recently been rebolted and belay stances are well protected with two large bolts at each. A number of interesting old fixed pitons remain in place as well.
After a period of rain, parts of the route will be wet and quite slick.
Oskar Matti, Fritz Ringgenberg, and Fritz Rupp made the first ascent on 9 June 1918.
The route starts from the top of the highest point of talus at the base of the face. There is an obvious climber’s track from the main trail at the ridge just before reaching the climbing hut.
The climbing starts with a couple of pitches of 2 leading up and to the right then continues more or less straight up to the base of the obvious large overhang.
The overhang is gone around to the right on smooth slabs. The upward traverse starts almost directly under the overhang and goes well away. There are pins and slings directly under the overhang up higher – but these are not on the main route.
Guidebook with topo: Plasir West
|Looking up the route |
|About mid way. |
|Under the overhang.
|Slabs above overhang. |
|View down slabs.
Rope, 6 to 10 express slings (quick draws), and a small assortment of nuts & cams. Rappel gear for the descent.
Downclimb/scramble the exposed SE flank to the pass between Rosenlauistock and Tannenspitze. Continue down the grassy slopes on the climber's trail until an easy to find rappel station (the "Liftwing") is reached. After rappelling 20m (overhang), continue on the trail and over plates back to the base of the peak.