renzo - Jul 22, 2019 9:07 am Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2019
East Ridge from Pine Creek
Nice warmup climb from Pine Creek for the extra elevation gain. Mudslide scar on the switchbacks mean some finagling on steep, loose slopes to get around. Especially annoying on descent.
Big, wobbly, talus fields on approach from Bear Lake. Real fun stuff doesn't start till closer to 12,000. Like north ridge (from desc., haven't done), sticking to ridge offers short sections of fun class 4 and class 3 knife-ridge scrambling with decent exposure. If desired, could keep it mostly class 3 by staying climber's left of the ridge, but appears to me to be a mandatory pitch of class 4 (maybe low 5?) after short traverse to exposed north side of ridge just before the summit.
For descent, after downclimbing that, tried to stick further lower of ridge to stay in class 3, but incredibly loose and chossy stuff made me regret that. Stuck back to ridge for more stable rock.
Also could not find the register, which was a bummer.
Simkin - Oct 6, 2016 12:22 pm Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2016
North Ridge
Here is the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ktgnUqTGBQ
CWessels - Jun 29, 2016 2:10 am Date Climbed: Jun 27, 2016
NE Ridge
I agree that there's a lot of loose rock on this route, especially near the start. Otherwise the climb is very satisfying and enjoyable. I traversed the west ridge to a class 2 chute near Pyramid for descent. I definitely would not recommend downclimbing the ridge.
PellucidWombat - Aug 23, 2010 6:14 am Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2010
Bonus Peaks!
Set up camp at Dade Lake with Gordon Ye for climbing the NE Ridge of Bear Creek Spire the next day. I had some time left in the day, so I climbed the N Ridge, then traversed to Pyramid Peak and descended the W Ridge to the col with the NE Ridge of Bear Creek Spire. A good afternoon out on a lot of knife-edge ridges, though there was a LOT of loose rock too!
cp0915 - Aug 31, 2009 10:36 am Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2009
North Ridge
Excellent route with Hugh de Q.
MoapaPk - Aug 30, 2009 9:00 pm Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2009
North Ridge
I don't recommend this as a descent route, especially for parties of more than 1. It's not so much class 4, as class 3 with huge movable blocks that randomly break free. The exact ridgeline looks to be safest for most of the way. I nearly killed CP at least once, and did one of my patented leaps to grab a knife edge when my footing disappeared down a chute.
Otherwise, a very pretty peak.
Deb - Sep 12, 2007 11:51 am Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2007
North Ridge Solo
Got a late start (0900) due to long drive; car to car in 9 hours with some heart-thumping events along the North Ridge. I stayed pretty far west and encountered more Class 4 with some 5 stuck in there pretty often. Loose rock? More like moveable surfaces! Kinda hairy when alone.
Descended via a few Class 4/5 chutes along the eastern face and circled around "pothole" lake; wasn't in the right frame of mind to downclimb my ascent route. =8O THEN the rain came.
BTW, the register coffee jar is on the 12,744' peak. I forgot to sign my name after putting a comment in it. :/
Route Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: July 8, 2004
I started off in the dark and summited just before sunrise on a beautiful summer morning. Watching sunrise on the surrounding peaks was breathtaking. The North Ridge is a very fine, unsung route in the Little Lakes area. Trip Report
renzo - Jul 22, 2019 9:07 am Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2019
East Ridge from Pine CreekNice warmup climb from Pine Creek for the extra elevation gain. Mudslide scar on the switchbacks mean some finagling on steep, loose slopes to get around. Especially annoying on descent.
Big, wobbly, talus fields on approach from Bear Lake. Real fun stuff doesn't start till closer to 12,000. Like north ridge (from desc., haven't done), sticking to ridge offers short sections of fun class 4 and class 3 knife-ridge scrambling with decent exposure. If desired, could keep it mostly class 3 by staying climber's left of the ridge, but appears to me to be a mandatory pitch of class 4 (maybe low 5?) after short traverse to exposed north side of ridge just before the summit.
For descent, after downclimbing that, tried to stick further lower of ridge to stay in class 3, but incredibly loose and chossy stuff made me regret that. Stuck back to ridge for more stable rock.
Also could not find the register, which was a bummer.
Simkin - Oct 6, 2016 12:22 pm Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2016
North RidgeHere is the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ktgnUqTGBQ
CWessels - Jun 29, 2016 2:10 am Date Climbed: Jun 27, 2016
NE RidgeI agree that there's a lot of loose rock on this route, especially near the start. Otherwise the climb is very satisfying and enjoyable. I traversed the west ridge to a class 2 chute near Pyramid for descent. I definitely would not recommend downclimbing the ridge.
bechtt - Sep 21, 2010 7:02 pm Date Climbed: Sep 26, 2009
Morgan Pass to Peppermint Pass traversewith Matthew Holliman
PellucidWombat - Aug 23, 2010 6:14 am Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2010
Bonus Peaks!Set up camp at Dade Lake with Gordon Ye for climbing the NE Ridge of Bear Creek Spire the next day. I had some time left in the day, so I climbed the N Ridge, then traversed to Pyramid Peak and descended the W Ridge to the col with the NE Ridge of Bear Creek Spire. A good afternoon out on a lot of knife-edge ridges, though there was a LOT of loose rock too!
cp0915 - Aug 31, 2009 10:36 am Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2009
North RidgeExcellent route with Hugh de Q.
MoapaPk - Aug 30, 2009 9:00 pm Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2009
North RidgeI don't recommend this as a descent route, especially for parties of more than 1. It's not so much class 4, as class 3 with huge movable blocks that randomly break free. The exact ridgeline looks to be safest for most of the way. I nearly killed CP at least once, and did one of my patented leaps to grab a knife edge when my footing disappeared down a chute.
Otherwise, a very pretty peak.
Deb - Sep 12, 2007 11:51 am Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2007
North Ridge SoloGot a late start (0900) due to long drive; car to car in 9 hours with some heart-thumping events along the North Ridge. I stayed pretty far west and encountered more Class 4 with some 5 stuck in there pretty often. Loose rock? More like moveable surfaces! Kinda hairy when alone.
Descended via a few Class 4/5 chutes along the eastern face and circled around "pothole" lake; wasn't in the right frame of mind to downclimb my ascent route. =8O THEN the rain came.
BTW, the register coffee jar is on the 12,744' peak. I forgot to sign my name after putting a comment in it. :/
Bob Burd - Jul 23, 2005 2:40 am
Route Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: July 8, 2004I started off in the dark and summited just before sunrise on a beautiful summer morning. Watching sunrise on the surrounding peaks was breathtaking. The North Ridge is a very fine, unsung route in the Little Lakes area. Trip Report