Route-finding crux of route...

Route-finding crux of route up Unicorn Peak's north summit, taken from the north summit. Climb steep class 3/4 to the large platform with a rusty bolt. From there, descend a few feet into a "chimney", squeeze under a boulder and make an exposed hand traverse. Follow the path of least resistance (class 3/4) to the summit.


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Bob Burd

Bob Burd - Sep 25, 2003 12:12 am - Hasn't voted


Good photo Morgan! Shows the crux beautifully.

Matthew Holliman

Matthew Holliman - Sep 25, 2003 12:32 am - Voted 10/10

Re: nice

Yes, this is a fantastic picture!


mpbro - Sep 25, 2003 1:33 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: nice

Thanks, guys. I remember sitting on the big platform for quite a while, puzzling over what to do next. Squeezing under that boulder seemed an odd proposition for someone my size....

Dave K - Sep 25, 2003 3:00 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: nice

Yes, this is a good depiction of the crux of the route. The squeeze isn't particularly hard, but it is quite awkward and pretty damned airy. Memorable, too!

Aaron Johnson

Aaron Johnson - Sep 25, 2003 3:52 pm - Hasn't voted


Guys-please enlighten me. What is a "hand traverse?"


mpbro - Sep 25, 2003 5:01 pm - Hasn't voted


Well, in this case, it's a normal traverse, but the hands are much better than the feet. Also, if you're tall, you've got an overhanging boulder in your face, which means you have to hang out over 200 feet+ of air.

But, the terminology is not mine--Secor also calls it a "hand traverse".


Dave K - Jun 3, 2004 9:01 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: My Leap

Wow: that must've been hairy. The platform is wide and flat, but the exposure makes screwing up unthinkable.

Matthew Holliman

Matthew Holliman - Jun 3, 2004 10:42 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: My Leap

I saw a couple of guys doing exactly that when I was up there. It was scary enough watching them--I couldn't imagine doing that myself. (I was roped in, so I chose to downclimb). BTW, I have a Quicktime video of one of those guys doing the "downjump" on my webpage (under 7/4/2003).


Wobby - May 12, 2009 2:34 am - Hasn't voted

Re: My Leap

hey yeah, I remeber doing the same thing. I guess I just wanted to face the exposure head on rather than backwards :)

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