Route Overview North and West Faces

Page Type
Dolomites, Italy, Europe
Route Type:
Classical Rock Climbs
Time Required:
Most of a day
Up to VI

Route Quality: 2 Votes

4851 Hits
71.06% Score
Log in
to vote
Page By:
Route Overview North and West Faces
Created On: May 2, 2004
Last Edited On: Nov 5, 2006


All of the routes can be reached best from Würzjoch / Passo di Erbe. To reach the pass leave the Brenner motorway A22 at Feldthurns (Valturno) and go east on Sp27 into Villnößtal (Val di Funes) or SP29 into Aferer Valley.

The following information can be read in much more detail in

Dolomiten Puez/Peitlerkofel
E.E. Striebitz
Rother Verlag
ISBN: 3 7633 1307 9

For a description of the North Face Route you can look at this Italian topo.


Route overview Peitlerkofel....Route overview Großer Peitler

As can be seen on the topo there are three known routes through the northern and western faces of Peitlerkofel.

a - Northeastern Face
First ascent: J. Hruschka, E. Erschbaumer, F. Neuner, L. Radschiller in 1919
Difficulty: V (one pitch)
Height: 600m
Pitches: 23
Most popular of the routes; equipped with bolts on all neccessary passages. Very good rock quality.

b - North Face
First Ascent: R. Messner, G. Messner in 1968
Difficulty: VI-
Height: 700m
Pitches: 16
Rather lose rock quality. Bring own hooks and wedges.

c - West Face
First Ascent: M. Schließler, D. Meyer in 1952
Difficulty: VI
Height: 750m
No details known.

Kleiner Peitlerkofel

Route overview Peitlerkofel....Route overview Kleiner Peitler

c - North Face
First Ascent: Unknown
Difficulty: IV
Height: 700m
Pitches: 26
Recommendable route with good rock quality

d - North Pillar
First Ascent: E.E. Striebitz, B. Bianchi in 1980
Difficulty V+ / A0
Height: 500m
Pitches: 10
Good rock quality with a large number of bolts.

Essential Gear

Depending on the route you have to be equipped with lots of hooks, bolts and wedges. Bring 50m ropes. The longest route is 26 pitches! The descent along the normal route requires no additional equipment.