All of the routes can be reached best from Würzjoch / Passo di Erbe. To reach the pass leave the Brenner motorway A22 at Feldthurns (Valturno) and go east on Sp27 into Villnößtal (Val di Funes) or SP29 into Aferer Valley.
The following information can be read in much more detail in
ISBN: 3 7633 1307 9
For a description of the North Face Route you can look at this Italian topo
Route overview Großer Peitler
As can be seen on the topo there are three known routes through the northern and western faces of Peitlerkofel.
a - Northeastern Face
First ascent: J. Hruschka, E. Erschbaumer, F. Neuner, L. Radschiller in 1919
Difficulty: V (one pitch)
Most popular of the routes; equipped with bolts on all neccessary passages. Very good rock quality.
b - North Face
First Ascent: R. Messner, G. Messner in 1968
Rather lose rock quality. Bring own hooks and wedges.
c - West Face
First Ascent: M. Schließler, D. Meyer in 1952
No details known.
Route overview Kleiner Peitler
c - North Face
First Ascent: Unknown
Recommendable route with good rock quality
d - North Pillar
First Ascent: E.E. Striebitz, B. Bianchi in 1980
Difficulty V+ / A0
Good rock quality with a large number of bolts.
Depending on the route you have to be equipped with lots of hooks, bolts and wedges. Bring 50m ropes. The longest route is 26 pitches! The descent along the normal route requires no additional equipment.