North Face

Approach

Same approach up to Castleton from the climbers campground as for Kor-Ingals. This route though, is the first route you see and the first route that you get to on the hike up.

After pulling the boulder moves from the ridge to gain the big ledge, walk about 15 feet to your right and locate a right facing dihedral.

Route Description

This is a much better alternative to the Kor-Ingals route. It can also be done in late spring/summer because it doesn't recieve sun untill about 5:00 p.m.

Pitch 1:
This climbs the Webster-Norden variation. Climb a shallow left facing dihedral for about 15 to a big ledge. (This is where the climb really starts) Climb the right facing dihedral (5.10c wide hands) for about 90 feet (this was the crux for me) to a buldge. Pull the buldge jamming good hands into awkward chimney type thing for another 15 feet. Two ways to go 1) Continue jamming finger crack (5.11-) straight up then right to the ledge for 15 feet or 2) Undercling right out the flake and then up to the ledge. (5.11-). Two-bolt belay.

Pitch 2:
Climb the finger crack that angles up right into the pod (5.9+). Climb out of pod with thin hands (5.10-) that continues up left to the belay via a strange flake. To a two-bolt belay.

Pitch 3:
This pitch may be scary if you do not have a #5 camalot with you. I have read discriptions and heard of accounts where people did not use it. The harder parts protect pretty well with smaller gear. I used it so I really can't tell you wether or not you'll need one. From the belay on pitch 2, angle up and to the right roughly 30 feet up a good ledge that leads to the base of thin crack wich leads to a offwidth/flake about 15 feet higher. Climb the the flake up to a buldge (5.10-). Pull the buldge (5.10) and continue up offwidth/lieback for another 50 feet. Here the crack ends. Traverse right 7 feet into another offwidth. Make your way up this into (5.8) chimney to the top. Protect in the thin crack. I didn't find any fixed anchors so I think you have to build your own.

Descent: Rappel the North Face with three 2-rope rappels down to the ground.

Essential Gear

2 ropes for the rappel or you can maybee rap Kor-Ingals with one 60 meter.

Rack: Double set of friends from finger size to #2.5. Three #3's and five #3.5's. One #4 camalot. A #5 camalot (old style) is very useful. One set of nuts for the last (3rd) pitch.

Miscellaneous Info

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Images

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