Gmoser Route, III, 5.8

Approach

This is a 4000'+/- ascent day. From the parking lot, cross the bridge and obtain the Cory-Edith Trail to your right. At the fork, remain right and continue along the faint trial below the east side of Edith. After approximately 1800' ascending into Gargoyle Valley, passing all Edith peaks on your left, you end up at the base of Mount Louis.

Route Description

The Gmoser route climbs the south face via slabs west of the southeast ridge. Start at the base of these slabs directly below an obvious corner system.

We ran a running belay through the first shallow corners to the base of the steep wall. Then move right into the base of the corner. Climb an obvious wide crack until you are slung out on small holds to the left of the corner to avoid a bulge. You step back into the corner above this bulge (5.8). Proceed past the next bulge (5.7) to easier ground. Then follow a trough for a short distance and traverse left around a rib to reach the descent gully used for the Kain route. Gain the rib on the left as soon as possible and follow it to a large platform at the base of the summit tower. The summit tower is split by a deep chimney. You can use this chimney, but the cleaner option we took was to the right in a prominent crack (photos above). This is a two pitch finish.

Essential Gear

Standard alpine rock rack: nuts and cams (mostly small to med), 8-12 draws, a few long ones (extenders), 2 double ropes will minimize rope drag and make a faster rappel, rock shoes are worth it, helmet, etc

Images

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