Kopinsek Route

Rating the Route (By Hiking Standards)

This is one of the most beautiful ascent routes on the summits of kamnik & Savinja Alps. It's long, quite demanding, but still marked and well secured. The scenery is great and the finale - where you cross the whole N wall of Ojstrica you will never forget.

Rating the Route (By Hiking Standards)

The grading system for hiking and scrambling routes is here.

0. General: From cca 800 m to 2350 m, exposition N and E. Marked path, on the upper part a medium hard ferrata. On the Swiss Hiking Scale the overall difficulty would be graded T4. Gear: Good shoes, eventually ferrata equipment (if crowdy). Great tour!

1. Effort: cca 1550 m. From Logarska dolina (valley) 4 h, from Koča pod Ojstrico (hut) 3 h.

2. Power: 3 - Medium

3. Psyche: 4 - Hard

4. Orientation: 2 - Easy.

Approach

Ojstrica and its routes

As described on the main page you ascend from Logarska dolina (valley) to Koča pod Ojstrico (hut), 1208 m. 1 h. If you do a 1 day tour, the trailhead is down in Logarska dolina (valley).

Route Description

From the hut the joint path for both northern ascents on Ojstrica goes first towards the SE up the forrest, then towards the S, crossing through a forrest the western slopes of Krofička. On the altitude of 1480 m, 30 min from the hut, the two ascents separate. Our Kopinšek route is harder and goes left.

We are still ascending through light larch woods, more and more approaching the fascinating vertical north wall of Ojstrica. Even the ferrata will not go directly over it, so the path is heading in the SE direction, in many turns up to Škrbina, 1800 m, the distinct notch between Ojstrica and Krofička.

..

On Škrbina the view into Robanov kot (valley) opens and our path switches into the eastern face of Ojstrica. First it crosses comfortably the grassy slopes above the notch, but soon a steep rocky barrier stops us. Here the real ferrata begins. We overcome the vertical step with a help of many hooks, pegs and steel ropes, reach a side ridge and go on the other side of it still steeply up. This part is a bit exposed, but the route is protected well.

.. ..

The upper part of the eastern slope is a bit less steep, so a tiny path can again be formed, bringing us in some turns and over ledges and steps just on the NE main ridge of Ojstrica. Again we look into the northern wall, now already having quite an altitude. The following the NE ridge is again exposed and steep, through a crack we finally reach the place on the ridge, where even the ferrata quits following it.

.. ..

Strangely, now the route crosses the whole northern face of Ojstrica. It's true, here the wall has a relatively comfortable ledge, but the feeling is very fine. Early in summer there may be dangerous snow fields! Some 150 m below the summit we go horizontally all the way to the NW ridge, and only there the ferrata turns up again. Over the last steep rocky sections we finally reach the summit.

It's best to descend over the Škarje notch (see the route description).